I’ve wanted to develop something like this for a while, so I finally got around to doing it!
One of the problems I have working with the Six Dial DX-6 resistance device is that if I use it with researched Rates, like the Coppen or Delawarr rate books, it seems to remove the element of tuning the “trend” with the stick pad. The dials are set to given numbers and that’s that. But since I learned on a Hieronymus Machine, I’m accustomed to the “human element” as an integral part of the system – the “element” being my nervous system.
The idea is also to allow a set of Rates – the “trend” – to be customized to the operation at hand, and I’ve come to believe that this is especially crucial with resistance-based devices. Or at least if one is going to use repeatable dial settings. Dr. Hieronymus considered resistance-based devices to be problematic; even high quality potentiometers are only accurate to within +/- 5% of their rated value. In my builds I went through several wire-wound potentiometers and tested them for accuracy, and used the ones that most closely matched their ratings. But even still the ranges were only within +/- 2%. And still, when you set a pot to a particular point on a dial, the next time you set it to that point, it may be off by a few percent from the last time. The wipers inside that make physical contact are not accurate enough.
Air-tunable capacitors, on the other hand, use interfacing layers of rotating metal plates, separated by a small gaps of air. There is no metal-on-metal contact, so capacitance is dependent only on the positioning of the plates, which with a fine enough dial scale, is very repeatable (this is why they were used for the tuning controls in radios.)
So, I decided to use the same method used to fine-tune loop antennas, of inserting a air-tuned capacitor across the terminals. Generally, a screw-adjustment trimmer capacitor is used for radio devices, since the radio is typically made to work with a fairly narrow bandwidth, and once it’s set, it’s locked in (again, air caps are very accurate and stable. As Doc Hieronymus once said, unless you hit it with a hammer an air cap is not going to malfunction.) But I wanted a wide range and manual tuning, so I used a Bakelite radio dial from a vintage crystal tuner, and the same type air capacitor as used in the Radionic Analyzer.
So now I have a way to use Rate books with my Three-Dial and Six-Dial devices, and still be able to tune it accurately for transmission of Aetheric signals.
I came across your blog while searching for an external to increase the broadcasting capability of some radionic instruments, viz. the Copen Labs ASLD95 and MARS III (via an AUX connector), ABPA A2 (via a 3.5mm mono plug) and also software radionics such as CyberShaman VIII.
Can any of your antennae be used for this purpose? I’d love to be able to DIY to experiment.
@Yan: Wow, you have a real ABPA A2? They seem to be pretty rare.
Yes, I bought one a few months back. Used units crop up at below half price every now and then in the Yahoo ABPA group. I contacted several sellers before buying mine and can check with them if there’s are still available if you want.
The ABPA is pretty simple to use, working in the same way as Copen Labs’ Auto-Simile function:
The ABPA doesn’t have any of the rate dials, stick pad, input mugs or homeopathic potentizers of the Copen though. Both the ABPA and Copen work, though I found the Copen much more flexible (albeit complicated) to use. You can find the ABPA’s manual and training videos at:
Given Alan Beck’s background in military radio, I suspect the ABPA is using SW radio frequencies to broadcast. Of all my instruments, the ABPA is the only one in which I feel (like a tingling sensation, even nothing is touching) the broadcast when I put my hand in the input well. The Copen ASLD95 has a coil inside to broadcast, which can be detected using the pendulum, but it can’t be physically felt like on the ABPA.
I didn’t get the Vortex imprinting plate / antenna like the one at:
but I got a larger rectangular “Parallel Air Water Interface” green antenna and the device interface cable (I would have attached a photo of the antenna in this post, but I don’t think it’s possible). The device interface cable allows external frequency generators to be hooked up, which is pretty handy. I haven’t got round to trying it yet, but if you have a programmable FG (I have a TiePie HS3), you can hook it up to the ABPA, which shares the port with the antenna) to broadcast specific frequencies, like RIFE for instance. The link below explains how to boost the broadcast capability of the ABPA:
The antenna supposedly increases the output by 10X and the interface cable another 5X. The Harmony Evolution chip (pictured below):
supposedly increases the output by a further 25X. I haven’t got round to testing that chip yet. An authorized ABPA reseller told me neither the SC-1A nor the Harmony Chip does anything according to what they tested.
@Yan: “Given Alan Beck’s background in military radio, I suspect the ABPA is using SW radio frequencies to broadcast. Of all my instruments, the ABPA is the only one in which I feel (like a tingling sensation, even nothing is touching) the broadcast when I put my hand in the input well.”
Yes, like Dr. Hieronymus. My Steampunk Hieronymus Machine broadcasts in the SW range, as does the Shortwave Oscilloclast (obviously). The Hieronymus is lower power and more finely tuned, but the SWO is a monster, it disrupts every radio within several meters when it’s running. You can feel the contact plates vibrating.
I’m not convinced that an “automatic” radionic device is feasible. I believe a human operator has to be part of the system. That’s why I re-vamped the original SWO and added human interface circuits. It’s far more effective than before (my wife’s gotten quite good at using it!)
The CoRe Inergetix System looks interesting – at least it involves bio-feedback from the subject, so the process has a human element.
@Yan: “An authorized ABPA reseller told me neither the SC-1A nor the Harmony Chip does anything according to what they tested.”
Heh. I’m not too familiar with Jeff Sutherland beyond what’s on his website, but my gut reaction was “huckster”. Like all other realms of human endeavor, radionics has them. Sturgeon’s Law applies here: “90% of everything is crap.”
I’ll tell you exactly when he totally lost me. It’s when he wrote:
“As readers probably already are aware, this particular geoengineering Emperor does not have clothes, as “man-made global warming” has been exposed as a hoax, and repeatedly so.”
An anthropomorphic climate change denier. Meh. I’m tuning OUT now, Jeff…
I’ll go with Scientific American on this one. See: http://www.scientificamerican.com/article.cfm?id=special-report-climate-change
(Not tuning YOU out, Yan! Thanks very much for the links, and please comment more!)
I see no reason why not! It’s a pretty easy DIY project. The basic circuit I used in the box is very similar to one shown on Intuitive Earth blog. You can see the diagram here:
The whole page is worth a read, it can give you a few ideas about boosting radionic transmissions:
In my version, the Input of my Tuner is the contact point labeled “From Tuners” in the diagram (in other words, from the output of the radionic device) and the Output of my Tuner is the contact point labeled “To Square Plate”. Output jacks – where antennas for broadcasting are connected – from devices such as the Copen, Hieronymus, Delawarr, etc are always wired parallel to the stick plate.
I have red positive(+) and black ground/negative (-) plugs on all my boxes, so even though the schematic diagram above shows only one Ground point, ground is ground. The black plugs form both input and output go to that Ground. The diagram also shows a fixed capacitor, but I used a 365uF air-tuned cap in that place in the circuit (rotor goes to pos+). The transformer shown is an 8 ohm to 1K ohm step-up transformer, the kind used to interface speaker outputs to line inputs. They have them at Radio Shack:
Whatever connectors your machine uses, if it has a negative wire and a positive wire, one could make an adapter.
See the section on sources at the end of the Building the Hieronymus Machine post for links to where to get the air caps. The dial is a bit trickier; the one I used is an antique Atwater-Kent radio dial I got on eBay. But practically speaking, you don’t even need it numbered – it’s tuned “by feel”, so to speak. I “cold scan” the tuning: rotate the dial and use the stick pad or pendulum while concentrating on the antenna itself. When I get a strong reaction, it’s in tune.
For an antenna, making the loop antenna mounted on a flat board is pretty simple. For my Six Dial Device I drove brass furniture nails into a plywood board in the eight-armed star pattern, eight nails for each arm, and wound magnet wire around them in a spiral (wind a loop around each nail as you go).
You might also try using a simple, store-bought AM Loop antenna for experimenting, the kind that usually comes with a new stereo receiver. I see them at thrift stores all the time. Online you can go here:
I use one of these with my Three Dial Device.
Any other questions, let me know!
Any idea what happened to http://www.intuitiveearh.com? I’m unable to access their site since months. A great site with a wealth of info…
No one is quite sure what happened to Jon. If you look on the list of links on the side of this blog, there is a link to the Wizzar’s Workshop site as archived by the Wayback Machine. At least most of the data survives!