Reconstructing the Aether: Building the Hieronymus Machine

(Note: If anyone has any questions about the construction process, or has tips on building their own Machines to share, please leave them in the comments section of this post.)

I’ve been wanting to study Radionics for some time, but I was never sufficiently motivated to expend the time and/or money to obtain a Radionics machine. While I can entertain the possibility of Radionics actually working, I never thought much of the Psionics idea of drawing pictures of machines and using cardboard cutouts for dials to practice Radionics – I’m an audio engineer by trade and I just couldn’t be comfortable with fake knobs. Or real knobs that I knew weren’t actually connected to anything (like so many Radionics devices I’ve seen advertised.)

If you’re going to do something, do it right! What I didn’t realize when I first set out to build this amazing machine that it was going to evolve from a weird science experiment to an expression of Art.

For Radionics to work, we’re told, the operator has to have a special rapport with his or her machine. So I set out to build the kind of machine that would work for me – something artistically beautiful and stylish as well as functional, with well-crafted details and smooth, accurate controls.

Early Tube Radio ca. 1915

As a kind of retro-tech geek, I’ve always loved the look and feel of antique electronic devices and artistic Steampunk machine creations. Early electronic medical devices were often gorgeous works of industrial art and craft. Most Radionics machines sold today are either an “utilitarian” machine in a plain box or a briefcase, or an ultra-modern, sleek plastic box built with exotic materials, holographic panel art and rows of blinking LED lights. And computer interfaces. No, I wanted to go “old school”, and make something I could be proud of as a work of art, reminiscent of the fine handcrafted electrical machines of the early 20th century.

The inner circuitry of the Hieronymus Radionic Analyzer is based on the 1980s circuit design of noted radionics researcher Dr. T. Galen Hieronymus.  The plans are available for free on the Internet, from the private archivist of Dr. Hieronymus’s papers, William Jensen. Mr. Jensen provided the schematic diagrams and parts layouts I used in my construction, and my correspondence with him has been most helpful to me in this project. (Thanks, Bill!) He also sells his own hand-made construction of the Hieronymus Machine to the public for what is, believe me, a very reasonable price. Visit his website at http://www.wdjensen123.com/ for more information.

1950s Hieronymus Analyzer

The circuitry is intended to be a reproduction of the instrument based on the patents of Dr. Hieronymus. Though the circuitry is of a mid-20th century design using transistors (Dr. Hieronymus’s last design before he died at the tragically young age of ninety-five), the exterior is an original design, hand crafted in the style of late-19th and early 20th century electrical devices. Also, I feel much more comfortable connecting my body to a low-DC voltage transistorized circuit than a high-AC voltage vacuum tube circuit!

Even the acquisition of the many of the components became a process of happenstance, synchronicity and luck.

The Exterior of the Analyzer

The mysterious wooden box I got at a swap meet, and even the person who sold it to me had no idea what it was originally made for. Larger than a common jewelry box, it’s the size of a small tobacco humidor or Victorian tea caddy, but there was no evidence that it ever had any compartments built into it (nor did it smell like tobacco or tea); it was completely plain and painted black inside. It’s rather large (8” x 10.5”) for a “craft box”, the kind wood hobbyists buy for projects, and the finishing is very professional. The sides are 3/8” solid wood with what I think is a cherrywood veneer. But the hinges it had seemed added as an afterthought – the wood was crudely mortised to fit and the cheap hinges installed slightly crooked. The lid was too heavy for the hinges to support when open, and they were working loose.

I told my wife I couldn’t imagine what the box was made for, and she replied, “it was made for you.” OK, we’ll leave it at that.

Air-tuned capacitor

The basic electronic parts like potentiometers, resistors, diodes, circuit boards and the like came from electronics shops. (Some on-line, some not.) Things like a 10-turn 100k ohm pot and the two air capacitor tuning coils are specialized components and had to come from electronic specialty suppliers. The air-tuned capacitors for the Rate controls were the trickiest parts to find, and even then I had to settle for a compromise. Without going into too much detail, air caps work by use of two or more stacks of semi-circular metal plates that mesh with each other when rotated on a shaft. Finding the kind that are “enmeshed” when the shaft is turned clockwise is extremely rare; generally air capacitors are only used for building DIY crystal radios these days, and they are almost always enmeshed when turned counter-clockwise. But the design requires that “100″ Rate setting on the dial is when they are fully enmeshed. So I set the dial scales up so that “100″ is fully counter-clockwise, and “0″ is fully clockwise – the reverse of standard left-to-right dial rotation. But I realized it doesn’t matter which way you have to turn it, so long as it’s accurate. And I kind of like the heretical vibe I get from having “backwards” dials.

Bakelite knob

Another problem was finding the knobs, which are more than just handles for the controls, but active components themselves. I wanted antique “hex-fluted” knobs made of Bakelite (more on that below), as these were the kind used in the first radionics machines like the Abrams Reflexophone, for that “authentic imitation retro” look. But they also have to have conductive metal pointers that are electrically connected to the shafts. The plans stressed how important this was for the machine to operate. The other requirement is that they be very sharp at the points so accurate numbers can be dialed in on an analog scale.

I found the smaller Intensity knob on E-bay, from an Australian ham radio hobbyist (he actually sold me two.) It already had the proper metal pointer. But no matter how much I searched, I couldn’t find a larger matching version. I did manage to find two larger knobs of a matching style from an on-line antique radio restoration supplier, but without pointers. So for the first version of the Machine I built, I used metal clock hands and soldered them to the metal shaft nuts under the knobs. It worked, but I wasn’t happy with it because they were not very “pointy” and didn’t match the Intensity pointer. I later upgraded the pointers with custom made versions (See below.)

The only other thing was I wanted all the metal parts to be brass, but the Intensity pointer seemed to be white metal. But examining it closely I realized it was actually brass with an outer plating of nickel (very common with electronic parts.) Some sanding and polishing revealed the brass, and then all the knobs and pointers matched.

Leaf-lever switch

The switches are vintage “phone console leaf-lever switches”. These are rarely used anymore except for restoring old equipment. The thing about this kind of switch is that they are “modular” – the internal leaf-switch parts could be stacked or mounted side-by-side to create whatever kind of on-off combination an engineer needed. One can still find them at surplus electronics stores, but I found a small cache of these in an old electrical workshop that didn’t want them so they were given to me. I had to reconfigure them to do what I wanted, especially to make a dual-circuit, spring-loaded, two position switch for the “Clear” control, which is all but impossible to find manufactured today. I had to combine parts from two switches to make it work.

The top panel and stick-pad are cut from a sheet of black Bakelite. Bakelite (which is a registered trademark of DuPont, but has become a generic term like Vaseline or Kleenex) is made by compressing sheets of a particular substance like paper or cloth with a binding material of phenolic resin.

Bakelite Radio

Bakelite was the first “plastic” ever invented, though it is not based on petroleum like most plastics today. In the 1920s and 30s there was a fad for costume jewelry made from Bakelite, many of which are now rare collector’s items. Old radios and tabletops were also made of Bakelite, and small items like brushes and combs.

Bakelite is extremely rigid and non-conductive, so it’s still used in the manufacture of electronic components; it’s also popular with cutlery manufacturers to make knife handles, and for guitar pick-guards. But it can’t be cast or molded, and it’s much more brittle than fiberglass or poly-carbon plastic, which has mostly replaced it. Bakelite is still manufactured today by the McMaster-Carr company, under their brand name of Garolite. Luckily, they don’t mind filling small orders for single sheets.

Hieronymus’s design calls for Bakelite made from paper fiber (another thing he was specific about) for the stick-pad, even though many radionics machines made these days use fiberglass or plastic for the stick-pads. (Even Bill Jensen’s plans originally specify fiberglass, though in a subsequent update he changed to black acrylic.) But I wanted to be as close to the original spec as possible – if I couldn’t get the machine to work it wasn’t going to be due to making compromises in construction!

In general, I tried to avoid using modern plastics as much as possible – even the knobs and switch-handles are made of Bakelite.

So I decided to make the whole front panel from it. Bakelite sheets only come in opaque black or brown; brown would have looked “retro” like an old radio, but black was easier to color-match when it came to making the dial scale decals (see below). Most builders, even experts like Bill Jensen or Ray Mattioda, tend to use white plastic for the top panel since it’s easier to make white (or clear) appliqués or stickers with black lettering for the scales. I was a bit concerned about this, but found a solution. One can buy ink-jet printer decal paper, usually used by model builders (to make authentic signs for model railroads or airplanes.) There is also an opaque white version, which meant I could print the black background and let the white show through. I got a friend who is good with Adobe Illustrator design some clean, sharp scales to the size I needed, and printed them out (Thanks, Sam!) Then the decals have to be sealed with clear acrylic spray so the ink won’t run in the water used to apply them. But since the Bakelite has a more matte finish than plastic, I used a flat finish polyurethane spray, and they match remarkably well.

Finally with all the parts together, I began construction. Bill Jensen, bless him, had some peculiar anomalies in his instructions, like telling you to install the drilled out control panel into the box *before* the step of mounting the dials and switches on it (kind of impossible!) But after logically sussing it out and re-arranging the steps, I was ready to go.

The first thing was to cut the bakelite to size and drill out the mounting holes. I needed a hole saw to cut the large hole for the well, and router bits for the switches. One thing to know about drilling bakelite: always clamp a piece of scrap wood under it! The first holes ended up with chips breaking away underneath, which I had to glue back into place. The second thing to know about drilling bakelite: if you use too high a drill speed, it will begin to smoke and burn! The smell of burning phenol is something you’d rather not experience. Treat it like drilling metal – always use a backstop and a low drill speed.

Then I mounted wooden corner pieces (to support the control panel) into the corners of the box. Since I didn’t want to mar the exterior of the box, I drilled the hole for the power connector into the bottom – the tall brass feet allowed enough clearance to use a right-angle ‘L’ connector underneath it. Though I actually did this later, I installed a pair of heavy-duty brass “stop hinges” that only allow the box lid to open to a 95° angle.

So the box itself was ready!

With the woodworking out of the way, I could turn to the electronics. Bill Jensen provides an etching “mask” for producing a printed circuit board, but I’m not fond of having to do acid-etching (the vile, dangerous chemicals, for one thing.) Since the wiring is actually pretty simple, I used a blank, pre-drilled circuit board, stuck all the leads through the holes and did point-to-point wiring of the electronics. (Basically hook everything together with short jumper wires.) Again, this is the very old-school turn-of-the-19th-century electronics way, as they did it before there were printed circuit boards.

Interior of the Analyzer

So I mounted the transistors and resistors to the board, leaving space to mount the coil on it later – I used a pretty big circuit board, and it could certainly be made smaller, but I wanted lots of space to work with, since it was the first time I’d made one of these. In fact, I ended up not using the space anyway after the first main modification – but more about that later.

I wanted everything to be mounted on the control panel itself, not to the insides of the box. That way, it’s taken apart by simply lifting out the control panel, and it all the circuitry comes with it. Except, in this case, the power cable. I had to install a DC power connector pair so the power line could be easily disconnected inside for lifting it all out.

I had L-bracket terminal strips lying around (any L-bracket would work) so I mounted the circuit board to one of those, and later I simply glued it to the underside of the control panel with epoxy, instead of running nuts-and-bolts through the panel surface.

All the components like switches and potentiometer mounted through their respective holes. I used an LED pilot light assembly from Radio Shack for the power light, but I stuck it inside a nice crystal “jewel” lens and bezel scavenged from an old guitar amp to give it the retro look.

The air caps were a bit of a challenge though. The threaded mounting holes for air caps are through the body of the unit itself, and usually the screws need to be custom cut to exact lengths (within 1/32 of an inch) so as to avoid snagging the rotating plates inside. Mounting it with screws through the control panel was tricky and if I did it wrong, it could be a serious setback. In Bill Jensen’s machines, he avoids the problem by using a big plexiglas mounting bracket on supports *under* the caps to hold them in place. But I had a smaller box space to work with and wanted to avoid all the extra fabrication work.

Finally a friend suggested to use double-sided tape instead of screws. So I got the strongest industrial mounting tape made and stuck the air caps to the underside of the panel with it. It’s wickedly strong stuff – I doubt I could pry those caps off without breaking the panel. (Hopefully I’ll never have to!) Problem solved! I ended up using adhesives extensively in this project instead of screws and metal fasteners. There are a lot of very powerful, advanced adhesives made these days for gluing just about anything to anything. The only drawback is that it’s very permanent, although using silicon “goop” adhesive is quite strong enough for most things, but still can be scraped off and separated if necessary.

OK, components mounted to circuit board and panel, time to wind the coils. But first, you need something to wind them on.

Electronic coils are just insulated wire wrapped around a non-metallic cylindrical core. Typically cardboard, wood or PVC pipe are used, and the wire is wrapped around and around for a specified number of “turns” to get the characteristics desired. Coils intensify electro-magnetism into a cylindrical space, so they are used to amplify weak signals, among other uses. The wire I used is 26 gauge, low-oxygen, enameled copper “magnet wire”. It looks like bare copper wire, but it’s coated with a thin layer of clear enamel insulation, so it can touch other wires without shorting out. This means when it has to be connected to another wire, the end has to be heated and scraped clean to remove the enamel.

Jensen’s instructions call for the main coil to be wound on a short piece of wooden dowel, which I did. Then I mounted the dowel to the circuit board and ran the wires through the holes.

The next coil to wire is the one around the beaker that becomes the witness well. Normally, people building a Hieronymus machine use a standard 100 or 200 milliliter laboratory flask, but I wasn’t fond of the idea for two reasons: one, the flasks are always labelled on the side with measurement marks, and there is a spout on the top edge for pouring. Since the flask was never going to be used for measuring or pouring, those features were superfluous. And they would have spoiled the clean “vintage” look I was going for. But it’s not easy to find anything similar to substitute. I was lucky enough to be browsing through a salvage store (Urban Ore in Berkeley, CA) and happened on an old coffee cup which was a glass flask with a plastic holder and handle! It was a bit larger than I had originally planned for, but it was pyrex glass and free of marks or spouts. So I bought it for 50 cents and broke the plastic holder off.

When winding the wire around it, it helped to have my wife to hold the beaker and rotate it while I fed the wire, so I got a nice, tight coil. Then I covered the whole beaker with black electrical tape, which is made of vinyl, which happens to be an insulator of eloptic (as well as electric) energy. (The well is another thing that got modified later.)

With all the components prepared, the next thing was to mount them all and then connect them with wires. It’s pretty straightforward if you can read a schematic diagram, but I labeled each point with a number to keep from getting confused. I used silver solder as recommended by Jensen. I made a mistake when I wired the three transistors and inadvertently installed them with the leads reversed. This had the result of them burning as soon as I applied the power to test the circuit! Once they were replaced and installed correctly, the circuit powered up properly.

First version of the Analyzer

The stick pad has a flat wound “bifular coil” under it (a bi-directional coil invented by Nikola Tesla) held in place by vinyl tape. I drilled four mounting holes in the corners an counter-sunk them so the screws would be flat to the surface, with rubber gaskets (the kind plumbers use in faucets) to hold it above the main surface.  Then I turned to decorating the control panel.

Using Photoshop, I created the front panel art, including lettering to label the controls. I spent a lot of time toying with fonts to use, finally deciding on a Copperplate font. The printed-out decals were easy to position while still wet, so getting them placed was fairly simple. Then I mounted the knobs on their shafts and screwed the control plate into the box. Done!

But not done…

The Machine was good looking but not everything I’d hoped for, artistically speaking. There were still some “modern” looking parts to it. The binding posts for the Input and Output connections were standard red and black “banana jack” plastic screw posts, the kind used to connect speakers to amplifiers. The decal labels didn’t have the look of etched panel lettering used in the early 20th century. So I decided to further modify the Machine to “version 2.0″.

First I wanted brass binding posts, and found a brass artist named Jon Bowers who creates hand-turned binding posts for antique radio restoration.  They were gorgeous (though not cheap). I ordered eight, figuring on using the other four with my next project. Then I replaced the clock hands on the Rate dials with cut brass pointers.

As I mentioned above, I was not happy with the “clock hands” I used for the Rate knob pointers, so a friend with a computer controlled milling machine cut me a pair of pointers to the right size and shape from brass sheet. (I didn’t know this person when I began work on the machine, so it was another bit of providence that she came along “when I needed it.” Thanks, Sarah!) They even have nice etched details, a pattern I lifted from antique clock hands! The points are so sharp I drew blood with one while working with them! I mounted them in contact with the metal shaft nuts in the knobs and I had what I needed.

Then I ordered engraved metal nameplates from a company that makes awards and trophies to replace the nameplate decals. I got them in black brass, and the maker, when I explained what I wanted, cut them to custom lengths for me. Then I adorned the dials with engraved brass bezels I found that just happened to fit the inner rings of the knobs. These changes made a big difference in the “look and feel” of the Machine.

Quartz Crystal Main Coil

I had been reading how many Radionics machines use quartz crystals in their construction, especially as the core for wire-wound coils. So I got a nice double-terminated quartz crystal the size of the wooden dowel and used it to wind a new coil. Since I couldn’t drill holes in it to secure the wire, I used silicone goop to hold down one end, let it set overnight, and it stuck the wire to the quartz strongly enough for me to get a tight winding. I used two spring-steel microphone clips to hold the crystal coil and mounted them directly to the underside of the panel instead of to the circuit board itself. (I was afraid the quartz would be too heavy and might break loose from the circuit board.)

And while I had it open, I installed a modification on the Hieronymus design. In the original design, when transmitting Eloptic energy to a remote subject, Hieronymus says the coil under the stick pad acts as the “transmitter antenna”. I wasn’t quite happy with that idea, so I added another pair of brass binding posts wired in parallel with the stick pad, passing through another quartz crystal coil, to connect an external antenna.

Antique loop antenna

At first I used an AM radio “loop” antenna (the kind that comes with stereo receivers) which is perfectly functional but not a good artistic match with the machine. So I decided to make a reproduction of a classic wire loop antenna, as were used by old crystal sets and tube radios.

The simple form of a loop antenna is a mast with a cross piece, and the wire is wound around it in a spiral pattern (like a spider’s web). But the geometric shape doesn’t matter, so I went for a mast with eight “arms”, and it really ended up looking very much like a spider’s web. The hardest part was drilling out 12 holes in a straight line in each 3″ long arm, and tapping in the 48 brass brads. Then I glued each arm with epoxy to a 2″ circle of bakelite which I had marked with an octagon.

Octagon Loop Antenna

When that set, I mounted a small, thin quartz crystal in the center, glued the other bakelite circle on top, and filled the gaps with epoxy putty, smoothing it to a solid disk. I used a black granite base that came from an old bowling trophy to hold it, and mounted the last pair of the brass binding posts to the base. The antenna wires terminate at the disk, so a pair of knurled brass nuts attach cloth-covered vintage wires that run from the posts. I can disconnect the antenna from the base and they both fit into a small leather carrying case.

And for a final modification, I added black light!

With a Hieronymus Machine, the witness well (the glass container where samples are placed) must be “cleared” or “neutralized” after each use. The theory says that the Eloptic energy imprints or “signatures” of samples will linger in the well, and can get intermixed with new samples, giving confusing or even detrimental results. The operator must take great care in handling witness samples, so as not to get their own signatures mixed with the subject’s. Samples are handled with rubber gloves or tongs, and each container must itself be cleared before using it to hold a sample. Tongs, probes and anything else that comes into contact with a subject must be cleared before using it with the next subject. And the Machine itself is also cleared to “reset” it for the next subject. It’s pretty much the same typical testing lab procedures.

Clearing (Hieronymus called it “Neutralizing”) is done by throwing a switch which sends the power through the well’s coil, and shorts out the amplifying circuit to ground  - it’s the same as a demagnitizer used on old tape recorders. But I felt like I wanted some kind of indicator to show that the Clearing was happening.

I had also become fascinated with the old “Violet Ray” devices, and surmised that since ultra-violet energy is used to sterilize medical devices and food handling surfaces, it might do the same, at least symbolically, for the witness well. So I took apart the well (no easy task!) and mounted a small 360 nanometer ultraviolet LED directly under the bottom of the glass using a block of gray foam rubber. When switched on, it causes the whole well to glow in a deep purple light. Glass sample vials also glow purple, and a quartz crystal placed in the well fluoresces brightly!

There were other touches I added, like Victorian-style brass corners and a nice metal nameplate to the lid. Now I had a Radionics machine that was functional AND beautiful. I’ve received many compliments on its look, including from Radionics experts like Bill Jensen and Charles Cosimano.

I also built some other accessories for the system. I wound another coil like the stick-pad’s under a wooden craft disk, mounted a brass disk on the wood and a bakelite disc on the brass, which makes it a basic orgone accumlator. I use it for taking pendulum readings and as a treatment platform. The pendulum is a small orgone wand. The probes are brass electrodes with wooden handles made from antique theatrical lighting plugs.

I enjoy experimenting with my Hieronymus Machine very much. I can confidently say it WORKS, as a Radionics Machine is supposed to work. I have already had many amazing experiences with it, the kind that make one question the concepts we’ve been taught by mainstream science of how the universe works. But that is for another article…

I’m proud of my Hieronymus Radionic Analyzer as an artistic work, aside from its (meta)physical functions. In fact, I’ve come to realize that being a work of Art is an important part of that function. People ooh and aah when they see it. They *want* to be connected to it. When they hold the electrodes, they feel it. It has an *aura*. Without that aura, I don’t think Radionics would work. Art is how to generate that aura.


UPDATE:

Some folks have asked me about sources for the various parts I used to make the Hieronymus Machine. Bill Jensen’s list has some good sources, but some are just tagged “Surplus” or “eBay” which doesn’t give much info to go on. So here’s where I located the hard-to-find components.

• Garolite (bakelite) sheets:

McMaster-Carr: http://www.mcmaster.com/#garolite/=74903l

The XX Grade Garolite is the paper/phenol composite material as recommended by Dr. Hieronymus. They will fill single-sheet orders. I used 1/8″ thickness for both the front panel and the stick-pad.

• 365pF, 180° air capacitors, brass binding posts, magnet wire:

Midnight Science: http://www.midnightscience.com/catalog5.html

Midnight Science is the website of the Xtal Set Society, a group of crystal radio hobbyists. They’re a small operation but they’re very friendly and helpful. Their air caps are custom made for use in high sensitivity radio equipment. Be sure you order the single-turn model!

• Air Variable Capacitor, clockwise-mesh version:

Modern Radio Labs: http://www.modernradiolabs.com/Parts%202.htm#Variable%20Air%20Capacitor%20406%20pf

These caps are within the usable range for building the Machine, and are built so that they are fully meshed when turned clockwise: just what you need if you don’t want “backwards” dial scales.

A hat tip to commenter Richard Thomas for the link!

• Precision potentiometer, 100k ohm, 3 watt:

Galco: http://www.galco.com/scripts/cgiip.exe/wa/wcat/itemdtl.htm?pnum=502-0109-NTE

This was the place with the best prices I found for precision potentiometers.

• Transistors, MPF102 J-FET VHF Amplifiers

http://www.jpmsupply.com/servlet/the-282/10-MPF102-RF-Amplifier/Detail

This is the EGC (MPF) direct replacement transistor for the 2N5670, which the techs at my local ‘old school’ radio electronics shop recommended. The 2N5670 is obsolete, but I did find one source in Hong Kong that specializes in obsolete parts – however, the minimum order is 24 units at US$6.00 each.

• Momentary (on)-on DPDT toggle switch

All Electronics: http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/STS-73/DPDT-TOGGLE-MOMENTARY-ON-ON/1.html

This is for the Neutralize (Clear) switch. The double-pole (DP) version is hard to find, but necessary if you want to install the ultraviolet UV light source under the well. (If you don’t, just use one side of the switch’s solder posts.)

• Classic control knobs:

http://www.leedsradio.com/parts-knobs.html

Leeds Radio: they carry a wide selection of classic radio knobs, including a knob with pointer for the Intensity control. You can also use a “chickenhead” knob for Intensity, with is what Hieronymus used in his machines. No matter what, you’ll still need to come up with metal pointers for the Rate knobs. (See below.)

• Glass beaker, 100 or 150ml:

Indigo Instruments: http://www.indigo.com/glass/gphglass/chemistry-beaker.html

These are standard laboratory beakers with the graduated scales printed on the side. They work perfectly well, but if you search and get lucky, you might find a beaker cup without markings.

• Metal clock hands:

http://www.klockit.com/products/dept-5__sku-SPADE.html

Finding big knobs with metal pointers is not easy! I ended up having to make my own. I had a friend with an automated milling machine, but one could cut a pair of pointers out of thin brass sheet with strong, sharp scissors.

A friend who built a Machine simply used stiff solid-core hookup wires for pointers, with stripped ends wrapped around the shafts, the rest straightend and cut to the radius of the number dials. Workable but lacks a certain, um, elegance.

In my first version of the Machine, I used metal clock hands for the pointers on the Rate dials. The mounting holes are actually too small to fit over the air cap’s shaft, so I cut them off completely, leaving just the pointer arm itself, and soldered it to the knob bushing.

Almost any knob with set screws to hold it to the shaft have a metal bushing at the center where the shaft is mounted. The pointers MUST be electrically connected to the shaft, so they have to be soldered in contact with the bushing. But soldering to solid metal is not easy. Rough the surfaces with metal sandpaper first. Clock hands have an enamel coating on the metal, which needs to be sanded off anyway to make electrical contact. It’s best to glue the clock hand (or whatever pointer you use) to the back of the knob first to hold it firmly in physical contact with the bushing, then solder the point where they meet with as much heat as possible without melting the plastic of the knob (use a solder gun instead of an iron.) Using solder flux paste will also help make a solid solder joint.

Most everything else needed to build the Machine can be obtained at hobby shops, hardware stores and electronics shops (Radio Shack, Maplin’s, Dick Smith, etc.)

Important Note: if you build the Machine with the air capacitors listed above, you have to number the dials in a counter-clockwise direction as I did. Whatever caps you use, the rule is simple: when the rotors of the cap are fully UNmeshed, that is the zero (0) dial position. When they are fully ENmeshed, that is the one hundred (100) dial position. Calibrate your dials accordingly, or the machine will not work properly.

Try as I might, I can’t find a source for clockwise-enmeshed air caps. If anyone knows of a source, please leave a comment here with the information.


UPDATE II:

I had been noticing that the reactions I was getting from the stick pad seemed to be getting progressively less “precise” than when the Machine was new. The stick reactions were getting “wider”, i.e. the range of the Intensity settings where I got stick reactions was not as precise as a few months ago.

I got an idea what might be happening after a conversation with Ed Kelley of Kelly Research Technologies (Thanks, Ed!), who pointed out that while winding coils with crystal cores can add a lot of power to a radionics circuit, the problem is keeping them “clear” of accumulated energies. Ed’s design solution called for the crystals to be removable for cleansing.

Crystal users typically “clear” or “cleanse” crystals by rinsing them with spring water, rubbing with salt or by… exposure to sunlight! Assuming the cleansing power of sunlight comes from it’s powerful ultraviolet component, I figured I could cleanse the internal crystals using shortwave UV light. So I added two more ultraviolet lamps inside the box, mounted so that they beam light down the axis of each quartz crystal when the Clear switch is depressed. The additional circuit also completes an eloptic connection between the Clear switch sending the degaussing energy to the Well and the crystals. Of course, since the box itself is light-tight, I can’t see them working. But I know they worked before I sealed the box shut!

So far, a week after the modification, the stick reactions are tighter again.

UPDATE III:

People have asked about the UV lamps used in the Machine and where to get the “right” ones. I used a 360 nanoweber LED lamp in the witness well, which is about as shortwave as should be used in any light source that can be seen by the operator. The internal lamps are 352 nanoweber, and the radiation can be harmful to the eyes and skin, even with short exposure. So those lamps are sealed inside the light-tight box.

A source for both of these LEDs is:

360nw lamps:

http://www.ledsupply.com/l5-0-u5th15-1.php

352 nw lamps:
http://www.ledsupply.com/l5-1-u5th15-1.php (note: these are rather pricey.)

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About josephmax

Aetheric Artist
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105 Responses to Reconstructing the Aether: Building the Hieronymus Machine

  1. Ed Kelly says:

    Hello!

    Your radionic instrument looks great! I love the extra time and effort you took to give it that classic look. I’m a big fan of that era of devices and have been itching to add a bit more of a steampunk ethos to the appearance of our own devices.

    In the same vein, I particularly love the use of the violet light to support the clearing effort. That will be useful not only as an indicator light, but also should be helpful with keeping the crystal clear – usually the Achilles heel of integrating crystals into a radionic device.

    Good luck in all your experimentation!

    Best wishes,

    Ed Kelly

  2. Dave says:

    I had the good fortune to experience Joseph’s machine at work. It is both beautiful and functional, and very inspirational. Thanks, Joe!

  3. Sorynzar says:

    That is one beautiful machine, like myself, you realise the significance of a radionics machine which is aesthetically pleasing and also highly functional. You can see an example of one of my prototypes on my blog.

    What I love about building my own machines is that I am constantly learning and refining the technologies which I use within my circuits and radionics core, I’m sure you notice the same with a flood of ideas and techniques which you want to put into practice.

    I love that Octogon loop antenna, didn’t Tesla have a large scale version of that?

    I would love to share ideas, always on the look out for radionics practitioners to share new ideas with.

    • josephmax says:

      Thank you for your kind compliments on my humble contribution to the art.

      I checked out your blog and you make some fine instruments yourself!

      Re: the loop antenna – Tesla made so many coils I’m certain he made an octagonal one! I chose the eight-rayed design because I have come across references to the “law of octaves” on a few radionics construction papers. In the Hieronymus design, the stick-pad coils are eight turns and the main coil is sixteen. I have construction plans for an agricultural “cosmic pipe” that specifies eight-turn crystal coils and two main coils of 88 turns each!

      My current project is making a seven-dial resistance machine (the Hieronymus machines, like the Kelly machines, are “capacitance” designs and I want to experience the difference.) Instead of a “steampunk” style, I’m going for an Art Deco look. I hope to have it done next month, and I’ll post photos here.

  4. Sorynzar says:

    Thanks for the positive comment on my constructions. I am currently planning and collecting parts for my most powerful machine to date, hopefully:-) It is a nine dial “resistance/capacitance machine” such as the one which can be seen on my blog, but the new one will have another unit with multiple switched output crystals each with their own unique properties. In addition to this I am upgrading the scalar circuit and coil designs by getting more power from the 555 pulser circuit. On top of this I plan to incorporate two electronically oscillated orgone Beamer and charging pads, along with my printed circuit board 2D pyramids. It’s going to be one long labour of love.

    May I ask where you find your schematics and old designs to work from, I cannot say I am familiar with some of the terms used such as “cosmic pipe”? I would be interested to find out more.

    Another thing I am thinking of incorporating into my new design is planetary frequencies. As you may know a radionics operation can be significantly enhanced by running the broadcast during the correct planetary period in relation to your desired outcome. The plan is the pump the specific frequency into the machine via an audio input which connects across the plates, at the same time providing stochastic resonance, which will pick up the ultra low frequencies from the samples and trend. Some interesting things to be playing around with.

    • josephmax says:

      Sorynzar:

      I know what you mean about a “long labour of love.” People who a shocked at the prices of radionics devices have never tried to build one! This is not to say that there aren’t some outrageous prices out there (as you point out in your blog) but machines by builders such as KRT and Lightning are well worth what they ask for them.

      What I find outrageous is charging the same kind of money that KRT or Lightning asks for their custom hand-built machines for a plastic project box with a few dials, a chunk of orgonite and a blinking LED on it.

      One great source for “old school” information is Bill Jensen (see the link in the article) who sells a CD with a lot of great documents on it. The “Cosmic Pipe” is one of Dr. Hieronymus’s designs for an agricultural device. It’s detailed in the “Cosmiculture Manual”, Dr. H’s magnum opus on agricultural radionics. I plan to build one to try in my garden, so I’ll eventually have some experimental data to work with.

      So many projects, so little time!

  5. Sorynzar says:

    You are quite right in saying that some machines are not worth what they charge for them, while others are definitely worth the high price on offer.

    Through my studies of Alchemy, I can see how this art of radionics parallels that of the noble art of the philosophers. We are in a sense the Mages of the 21st century, creating the synergistic blend between high technology and ancient technology of the ancients. As with alchemy it is only truly available to the alchemist who persists with the great work and tumbles even further down the rabbit hole into the amazing and impossible truth which lies within.

  6. Joao Monteiro says:

    Hi;

    I’m impressed with your work, not least of all because I’m myself a nostalgic for the old school look and feel of electric apparatuses… indeed, a touch of elegance can make the work much more enjoyable :) Congratulations and best wishes with your experiments.

    On another note… Bill jensen’s plans and instructions are indeed somewhat confusing, as far as I can tell so far… for example, on his schematics cames a representation of an extra set of coils that are nowhere accounted for in the instructions…

    So, I would like to ask you if you would be willing to share a fully detailed schematic of your work with a fairly comprehensible set of instructions, as I would like to do some tinkering of my own with a similar machine for some of my own personal projects’ research… Should you have no objections to this, could I ask you to please be kind enough to email them to crocossaurio@yahoo.com ?

    My upfront gratitude, whichever your decisiom might be.

    Kindest Regards

    Joao

    • josephmax says:

      Thanks, Joao!

      I think you may be confusing the representations of the coils on Bill’s schematics. What *looks* like two coils (labeled “24″ in the schematic)* is for the stick pad and it is actually one *dual* coil – the magnet wire is combined into a pair of wires, then both are wound as a coil together, with the wires side-by-side. The section labeled “T” is the specimen Well, which is again a pair of wires wound together, but on one end they are joined (making what’s called a bifuler coil.)

      I wrote this article to try to help people like yourself who are trying to build a Machine using Bill’s instructions – it’s kind of a “supplement” to his instructions. With the two, you should be able to build it successfully. Also, I’ve found Bill to be very helpful and willing to answer questions if you drop him an e-mail.

      *Correction – the dual coil ’24′ is the dual coil wrapped around the dowel, not the stick pad coil, which is labeled ‘P’.

  7. brett sanders says:

    Hello from Australia.
    Just ‘stumbled’ onto your fantastic site- thank you. It is inspiring to see so many decent activities into radionics happening.
    Im keen on getting a radionics instrument to supplement my dowsing for analysing soils, plants, animals and humans. Ive got a ‘prue’ instrument that vitalises, copies and broadcasts- using cards with slots and/or substances from a plate.
    I have seen a Hieronymus analyser for sale from Bill Jensen, and am pretty excited about it- certainly feels good. WOuld this be a good ‘all round’ instrument for in-depth analysing? are the instruments with multiple sets of dials that much better and worth the extra money? and do you know much about the other instrument that Bill sells- the ‘anapathic’ i think- will analyse and treat on its ‘own accord’ as such…
    And your instrument looks great. well done!!!!! wish i had the electronics brain and patience to build one too!!!!!!!!!!!
    regards Brett Sanders, Australia
    ps Hugh LOvel has got plans on the net for a modified cosmic pipe- the field broadcaster. this modification has both the upper AND lower wells- to really balance soils and atmosphere. And believe me they really work!!!!!

    • josephmax says:

      Hi Brett,

      Thanks for your kind words about my humble projects.

      The Hieronymus Eloptic Analyzer (the one Bill sells – same inside as my machine) is an excellent “all-around” device, especially for agricultural work.

      The “Anapathic” device is more specifically for treating animals (including humans) for “junk rates” – it doesn’t do any analysis. I guess the point is that you don’t NEED to do analysis, but I prefer the “hands-on” approach. And it’s not a replacement for a multi-rate adjustable analyzer, which is far better for doing treatments tailored for the subject.

      A multi-bank device (Bill has designed those too) has the ability of transmitting more than one balancing rate at a time. The only real advantage is in time savings – you can just as well use a single-bank machine and transmit each rate one-at-a-time.

      A friend of mine has built a Cosmic Pipe from Lovell’s and used it in his greenhouse – he agrees that it works GREAT.

  8. Serephah says:

    Hello Joseph

    I must admit, your blog has captivated me. I’ve been studying occult and mystical topics for some time, and I also have a love of science, which led me to being an alchemist. Yes, alchemy is alive and well in certain circles and is a lot more involved than just the fruitless search for making gold (I also don’t mean the modern ormus craze). There is a connection between alchemy and radionics, namely, aether, which alchemists called the Azoth (also known as Schamayim, and the “astral light”). Aetheric engineering is a nice term.

    However, I know next to nothing about radionics. In my studies, it’s cropped up now and again, and I’ve always pushed it to the side, more focused on what has immediately grabbed my attention. You made a statement: ” I can confidently say it WORKS, as a Radionics Machine is supposed to work. I have already had many amazing experiences with it, the kind that make one question the concepts we’ve been taught by mainstream science of how the universe works. But that is for another article…”

    I would love to hear more on this. I took a quick scan of your other blogs, and I couldn’t find one in particular where you discuss your own experiences. In all the bits I’ve scanned on radionics, your blog has piqued my interest the most. I very much would like to know your personal experiences int his field, and the kind of research you’ve been able to do with your instruments.

    In L.V.X.
    Serephah

  9. josephmax says:

    Some of my best friends are alchemists! (Very serious ones, in fact.)

    Here’s the bottom line: I’ve used the Hieronymus Machine to successfully scan and predict a medical doctor’s diagnosis of various maladies being suffered by several friends. In one example, a friend was suffering with dizzy spells and shortness of breath. My scan indicated a heart condition, specifically in the left lobe. This turned out to be correct – a congenital problem in the left ventricle. Another instance a friend was given antibiotics to treat what was thought to be a strep infection. A scan I performed showed no strep, but rather a viral infection, particularly in the liver and spleen. A subsequent visit to her doctor showed she was misdiagnosed – she actually had mononucleosis. There are a handful of other similar examples.

    Then there is the cat.

    Shortly after I finished the Machine, a friend of mine had a 17 year-old cat that was seriously ailing and about to be put down. The vet diagnosed the cat’s kidneys were failing and said euthanasia would likely be necessary soon, but my friend took it home to think about what to do. I told her about the Machine and she supplied me some fur samples from the cat – at that point she felt there was nothing to lose. I followed the recommended procedure to treat kidney malfunction from the manuals written by Hieronymus. Four days later she brought the cat back to the vet, and it was seemingly more energetic than before. The vet examined the cat and said that its kidneys were functioning better than five days ago, and it was not in imminent danger anymore. Six months later the cat finally died of “organ failure” (a fancy term for “old age”) but it had six more months than it was supposed to have.

    Now, did my operation with the Machine aid the cat’s kidneys to regain function? Hell, I don’t know. That’s not a proof. Correlation is not necessarily causality. Frankly, I fully expected it not to work, if for no other reason than due to my relative inexperience. It could easily be a weird coincidence. Sometimes failing cat kidneys go into remission, I suppose.

    Here’s the thing, though: I have no ethical authority to conduct human experiments, and doing so would put me at risk of violating medical laws. In the USA it’s legal to twist spines, insert needles, feed herbs, administer vastly diluted concoctions, lay on hands or just fervently pray over someone for the openly advertised purpose of effecting physical healing (and get paid!) but if there is a box with dials on it involved, suddenly it’s a criminal act. Most of the genuine Hieronymus-design machines sold today are marketed for agricultural use only, because of legal risks.

    I have never, and would never, advise anyone to substitute radionic scanning and balancing for allopathic medical treatment from doctors, nurses and hospitals. I recently had surgery to correct tendinitis in my hand. But I use the Hieronymus Machine to help accelerate the healing process.

    As far as using the machine to win lotteries, excel in sports, find friends, pick up chicks/dudes, travel in time… nope, never tried any of that. Helping me and my family and friends be healthier has been more than enough to keep me busy!

  10. john plante says:

    Your work shows beautiful craftsmanship which I appreciate, having been a toolmaker. In my old age I have taken to building crystal radio sets using antique radio parts when I can find them. I have become quite good at making beautiful coils that look like antique ones. One friend remarked that my stuff looks like models in the Smithsonian. I built crystal sets as a kid, my dad showed me how. Really simple ones that worked well. For quite a while I’ve wanted to build a Hieronymus machine. I have a copy of his patent, but patent drawings and their accompanying text, just convey the idea. What I would like is something more solid to build to, like a schematic. I would want to accumulate the parts and build something someone else has had experience with, and that looks good also. Are your plans available? Respectfully submitted, John V. Plante

    • josephmax says:

      Thanks for the compliments, John!

      I’d love to see examples of your coils and radio sets. Do you have any photos on line?

      I remember building a “blue razor blade” crystal radio kit when I was a kid in the Boy Scouts. It didn’t work great, but it did work!

      I built my Machine based on the schematics available free from William Jensen, on his website at: http://www.wdjensen123.com/hieronymus/Plans.htm

      With what’s available there, plus the tips and lists of parts suppliers on this blog post, you should have all the info you need to build the Machine.

      Now, understand that the plans from Jensen use the circuit designed by Dr. Hieronymus in the early 1980s using germanium transistors and air tunable caps instead of the rotating prism and armature in the original patents. But I can assure you it works just fine!

      Feel free to contact me through this blog if you have any questions.

  11. Micky says:

    I have been fascinated to find this conversation thread which I came upon by accident. What strikes me most is the similarity to the ‘e-meter’ which was ‘invented’ by L Ron Hubbard for use in Scientology. Amazingly, the Hieronymus Machine (patented in 1949) was also promoted by John Campbell in Astounding Science Fiction at the same time as Hubbard wrote for the magazine.
    Is it only me …..?

    • josephmax says:

      The E-Meter works by measuring galvanic skin response, like a simple toy “lie detector” (which is all it really is.) I can understand some passing similarity, but what the H-Machine does is so fundamentally different that I don’t think Hubbard “stole” it from Hieronymus (or Campbell.) He stole it all from:

      a) Jack Parsons, from which he took the rough outlines of American-style Thelema and perverted it to form the basis of Scientology (as well as a lot of Parson’s money, his boat, and his girlfriend.)

      b) polygraph technology, which was just coming into popularity, to create the E-Meter.

      c) Austin Osman Spare, from which he took the whole idea of symbolic implantation of will into the subconscious (sigil magic) and flipped it on its head, turning it into his “engram” theory but in reverse. Instead of a magician deliberately implanting subconscious symbolism into his or her own mind for desired effects, under Hubbard it became involuntary implantation by outside forces that create undesired effects. The whole idea of the subconscious becoming susceptible to implantation during times of induced ‘gnosis’ (the mind becoming a ‘blank slate’ during moments of exaltation and/or stress) is Spare’s – Hubbard stole it and converted it from something positive to a negative.

      So yes, Hubbard was a thief, but Hieronymus wasn’t someone he stole directly from. An E-Meter isn’t a radionics device. No one uses E-Meters to heal, or to manifest one’s will in the world.

  12. Pingback: Radionics, Art and Consciousness « Wild Rote

  13. Cher Louise says:

    A hearty thank you for your presentation at last evenings Pantheacon!
    I read with avid interest, Secrets of the Soil many years ago and was quite intrigued by the possible uses of the cosmic pipe. (cell phone towers, toxic waste, chemical contamination, etc.)
    I would like some help building one and I find that I am having some resistance to using pvc, as I do not like plastics in general and also for aesthetic reasons and the profound chemical pollution caused by them…
    We are lucky to have many fruit trees in our property and I wish to mitigate some of the many effects of cell towers, wifi, microwaves, radio waves etc. that surround those of us who live in silicon valley. (We are in Campbell).
    Do you perhaps offer a workshop?
    Again, many thanks for your work in this area!

    • josephmax says:

      Hi Cher,

      I’m glad you enjoyed (and hopefully profited!) from my humble presentation.

      I do appreciate what you’re saying about plastics, but I wish we would be harvesting dinosaur goo and making building materials like PVC out of it instead of burning it up in cars. *That* is a stupid, dirty waste of limited resources.

      But a Cosmic Pipe can be built out of wood instead of PVC. It doesn’t even have to be a “pipe”. The PVC pipe is really only to protect the coil assemblies from the elements. Here’s pictures of one made out of wood:

      http://www.geomantica.com/images/Al%26R%26coil.jpg
      http://www.geomantica.com/images/coilcloseup.jpg

      And here’s an article about organic farmers in New Zealand using them:

      http://www.geomantica.com/geom21.htm#11

      As you can see, they simply wound the copper coils on dowels and mounted them to a 2×6 wooden board, instead of sticking them inside a PVC pipe. Follow the same layout as in this plan:

      http://www.acresusa.com/toolbox/…/farmingtheatmosphere_jun97.pdf

      The enamel-insulated magnet wire used to make the coils (do NOT use uncoated copper wire!) is sealed and shouldn’t corrode for a long while.

      Do you think gardeners/growers in your area would be interested in such a workshop? I don’t know folks or venues down there in the South Bay (I’m in Oakland) but perhaps you do. If you’d like to set something up (or know someone who can) I’d be willing to do a workshop so long as my expenses are covered.

      E-mail me at my Profile (Gravitar) link here on this blog site if you need to reach me.

  14. Scott says:

    Your blog post and technical accomplishments are astonishing and inspiring! I have witnessed your machine in person and it is truly a thing of beauty as well as being highly functional! Truly, Magick for the 21st century with a 19th century flavor. You should be highly commended for your significant efforts in this arena.

    I was planning on building a full-blown Hieronymus Analyzer this year and I would like to get started right away. I have bookmarked the various reference sites you have provided in your post (these are incredibly useful).

    I was wondering, what in your mind aught to be the preliminary steps in constructing a machine? I am starting from scratch and have not even yet decided on a look for the device. I presume locating a suitable box and deciding on the design aesthetic would be the first steps I would need to take? Ideally, what is the minimum size of box?Please let me know your thoughts as they will likely inform the decisions I have yet to make. Thanks in advance for your assistance in this matter!

    Cheers!

    • Scott says:

      Okay, I read the Jensen plans further and got a sense of the materials and size of the box. How flexible can I be with the box in your opinion? Are other materials acceptable? I have heard you mention that sometimes these are built into suitcases and other enclosures. Does the material of the enclosure affect the function of the device? Thaks again!

      • josephmax says:

        The box I used is smaller than Jensen called for – it’s about 8×10 inches, while Jensen calls for 10×14. The controls are pretty tightly packed on mine, so I’d think of 8×10 as the minimum size. It will need to be at least 4 inches deep.

        Almost all Hieronymus Machines are in wood cases – metal is not recommended by Dr. H. The alternative is phenolic laminate (Bakelite), which is basically resin-impregnated wood pulp. Bakelite is a good choice for the control panel and the stick pad.

        A perfect portable enclosure would be a large wooden briefcase (Fabric or leather covered is OK.) Ray Mattioda built his instruments into briefcases.

        I’ve found all my boxes at garage sales and thrift stores! The discovery of the box will suggest the look. I’d like to make one in an Art Deco style someday.

        The first step is to gather all the parts! I’d not recommend beginning to build until all the parts are in hand.

        You have my e-mail so feel free to send me any questions you have.

  15. Adrian says:

    HI i am currently building this device,but am a little confused. mr jensens plans seem to indicate tha P is the stickpad coil and not the dual coil marked 24. but you have stated the opposite in a previous post. also does the intensity control when at zero have the lowest resistance or the maximum.
    I hope you can help with these points as im eager to start assembling the machine
    Many thanks.
    A

    • josephmax says:

      The ‘P’ on the schematic is indeed the stick pad coil, and ’24′ is the dual coil wrapped around the dowel. I’ll go back and correct it!

      In Jensen’s design, when the intensity potentiometer is set to ’0′ (fully counterclockwise) the resistance is at minimum. It seems counter-intuitive, but in the circuit it seems that increasing the resistance to ground at that point will result more power flowing through the transistors. Jensen claims that he studied both Hieronymus’ original schematics and two actual Analyzers and that is the way the pot is wired. He mentions on his webpage that Mattioda and Kelly analyzers are wired the opposite way, where ’0′ = maximum resistance. But while I can’t speak to the Mattioda design, I’m fairly sure Kelly Analyzers are actually wired the same way Jensen does it.

      Good luck with your build! If you have any other questions, or any tips and tricks to share, don’t hesitate to post them here. And when you finish, send some pictures!

  16. Adrian says:

    Thanks for the prompt reply,youve been most helpful. i’ll put up some pics when its done. although it will be bult with robustness and practicality in mind, and looks secondary. Cheers A

  17. Richard Thomas says:

    This is really a great article. You have obviously spent time and effort in making a very “personal” instrument that works well. I too am an independent researcher and have built an instument based on Bill Jensens schematics. I found an electronic copy of the “The Paper Doctor” and was inspired by the research done based on the science that Malcolm Rae developed back in the 1950′s and 60′s with the use of magneto geometric designs. Based on information gleaned from “The Paper Doctor” I have designed a unit after the research and design of Malcolm Rae that I have tied into the Hieronymus instrument circutry that produces excellent and very consistent results in making homopathic remedies by the use of magneto geometric designs that, of course, can be determined by dowsing and printed by using MS Excel. I believe that sending the trickle of electrons generated in the Hieronymus instrument and sending the energy to the Rae unit through the output, truly enhances that process.

    I have found 406 pf varible air capacitors that mesh when turned clockwise at Modern Radio Laboratories. These are nice little units for $8.00 each plus postage.
    Here is the website: http://www.modernradiolabs.com/Parts%202.htm. You will need to scroll to the bottom of the page to see the smaller pf 406. Paul is a great guy to deal with and will give prompt service.

    Richard

    • josephmax says:

      Hi Richard,

      Thanks very much for the link to the air cap supplier! I think I’ll update the parts source section with this information.

      One of the projects I have on the bench (under the bench at the moment, actually) is a re-creation of a Delawarr nine-dial instrument. All I need to do is find the time!

      Peter at Intuitive Earth (see my blogroll) has been very helpful to me in working out how the Delawarr instruments configured their magnetic components. I’d love to hear more about using a Delawarr-type instrument with a Hieronymus Machine.

      • Richard Thomas says:

        Hi, Joseph!

        I was fortunate about 18 months ago to correspond with a fellow natrupathic doc in southern Australia who had retired and was selling some of his instrumentation. He mentioned a Delawarr instrument that he had received as a gift and had never used because he did not know anything about how the instrument functioned. He offered to sell me this brand new 1950 era Delawarr instrument for the grand sum of $400.00. Unbelievable, right? Of course I accepted and within a matter of days I had this shiny new nine-dial Delawarr setting on my bench. Nearly unheard of but nevertheless true.

        I have connected the Delawarr into the Hieronymus with lead wire and banana plugs from the ground socket and antenna socket on the Delawarr into the input side banana sockets of the Hieronymus instrument. I placed a pot and dial configured for homeopathic potencies inline on the antenna lead and can set a full range of homeopathic remedy potencies if that is what is needed. So – I set up the British rates on the Delawarr as input data and it works like a charm! It is the best of all worlds.

        The insturmentation and protocol I have built based on the Malcohm Rae Magneto-Geometric theory goes something like this. The theory basically uses data determined by the cardinal and sub cardinal compass points; a 100 mm ruler; and a pendulum.

        So – we start out by dowsing a set of eight numbers between 0 and 99 from a chart I designed specifically for this purpose. In actual practise as done by Malcolm Rae it is assumed that the witness/substance is placed at the zero “0″ end of the 100 mm ruler. The eight numerals represent the cardinal and sub-cardinal points of the compass, ie, N, NW, W, SW, S, SE, E, NE, and what the numerical mm value would be on the 100 mm ruler as determined by where the pendulum would swing perpendicular to the 100 mm ruler. The perpendicular swing of the pendulum determines where the morphic field of the witness/substance and the magnetic field of the earth intersects. The ruler is aligned with the cardinal and sub cardinal points of the compass and a reading in mm’s is taken at each alignment, and the mm is the numerical value used.

        I have simplified this procedure by asking for the digit represented in 10′s (10, 20, 30, etc.) and the digit represented in 1′s (1,2,3,etc.) for each cardinal and sub cardinal point and the numerical value that would be deteremined by the mm value. This sounds more complicated than it really is. You can generate a set of eight numbers in just a couple of minutes.

        I then place the eight number set into a MS Excel schematic that pecisely positions each numerical value into an octigon (eight sided shape) and connects the eight dots with lines that represents the shape of the morphic field of the witness/substance.

        The instumentation that “reads” this morphic field symbol and converts it into useful substance by imprinting a mixture of distilled water, brandy, and lignate Willard water is set up like this: I create a glass envelop by taking two 2.5 inch glass plates with a thin spacer into which I can insert a representative morphic field symbol printed on 2X3 inch card stock. I set this glass envelope into a frame that the rest of the instrument and be aligned to.

        I then take 2 inch neodymium donut magnets and place a mobius coil in between them. The south pole is facing out, toward the glass envelope and the card stock. I then expoxy the magnets/coil to the open end of a 5o ml pyrex beaker that I have filled with double terminated teeny tiny shiny quartz crystals or herkimer diamonds mixed with quartz flour (50 or so small quartz crystals). In the bottom of the 50 ml beaker I place two one inch donut neodymium magnets, one on the inside of the beaker and one on the outside bottom of the beaker, with the magnet side which would attract the south pointing needle of a compass, positioned toward the open end of the beaker. My theorey is that the one inch magnets in the bottom of the beaker help to “focus” and assit in “pulling” the morphic field data through the quartz matrix, thus amplifying the energy in the morphic field data. Just my theory, of course.

        I leave a long two wire tails extending from the mobius coil that I wrap seven times around the 50 ml beaker and pass under the one inch donut magnet on the bottom of the beaker. I silver solder the two ends of the coated 20 ga magnet wire to the solder connectors on the right side of a pf406 variable air capacitor. The capacitor, of course, serves to tune the morphic field energy to the precise output needed.

        Out the left side of the capacitor I run two magnet wires to a pyrex remedy well that I wrap, starting in the middle and wrapping 14 turns up the well with one wire and 14 turns down the well with the other wire.

        The two wires are then extended to banana sockets that allow banana plug leads to connect to the output of the Hieronymus instrument. I believe this is important because I think the trickle of electrons and scalar energy coming out of the Hieronymus enhances the imprinting energy of the morphic field data into the liquid.

        So there you have it. The Delawarr and the Malcolm Rae technologies really do work well when used in conjuction with the Hieronymus technology. I think making them all work together creates the very best technology one could hope for.

        Regards,

        Richard

  18. Richard Thomas says:

    Hi, Joseph!

    Just another comment on constructing the stick plate antenna. I have found that instead of the double looped wire, winding a mobius coil with 22 ga coated magnetic wire using a dowsed number of feet ( I use 13 feet 6 inches in making my stick plate coils, but this is an individual matter) makes a much more sensitive plate. I would direct your attention to an article by Steve Linsteadt in which he shows how the body naturally accepts scalar energy by its very design in organ placement, the flow of fluids, etc. The website is found at http://www.naturalhealinghouse.com/scalar.html

    My thought is that by integrating a mobius coil into the circuit of the Hieronymus insturment by using the mobius coil as a stick plate antenna we are creating scalar energy that will readily link to the operator and that the non-local witness/objective more readily accepts. The mobius coil is wound in a 3 inch diameter and is placed under the stick pad plate.

    Also, I have integrated white noise into the circuit of the Hieronymus insturment. The Pinceton Engineering Anomalies Research (PEAR) project demonstrated that white noise creates an enviroment in which the human brain connects more readily to instrumentation. Since radionics requires that a human operator be part of the protocol it makes sense to me that white noise may assist in making a better connection to the instrument. It is very simple to inject sound into the circuit using a white noise generator.

    Just some thoughts and ideas I have found useful in my research.

    Richard

    • josephmax says:

      Thanks for your insights, Richard. Please feel free to share more, and I also recommend heading over to the Berkana Path radionics forum for more intelligent and useful discourse with your fellow radionics device makers.

      http://www.berkanapath.com/forum/index.php

      I’ve used a mobius coil in my One Dial Device, but not for a Hieronymus stick pad. I’m actually thinking of upgrade the Steampunk instrument with a sightly larger stick pad, so I may just try using a mobius coil for it.

      I’ve been done some experiments with using binaural entrainment recordings to enhance the effects of balancing with the Hieronymus Machine, but with the headphones on the subject, not me! You’ve got me thinking that having both the operator and the subject “tuned in” to the same brainwave entrainment stimulus might generate a useful effect. I can definitely see a possible positive enhancement by using binaruals when doing “cold scans” to derive new Rates.

      There’s no reason the audio signals can’t also be simultaneously fed into the device as well.

      As I’m so fond of saying, “This is a subject that certainly needs more research!”

  19. Richard Thomas says:

    Hi, Joseph!

    As far as pointers go, this is my soultion. I go to Michael’s (or any craft store) and look at their supply of craft needles. A long, thin needle with a sharp point works well. So, how is it attached? I take fine guage copper wire and wind about 1/4 inch around the “eye” end of the needle, leaving a 1/2 inch tail, and silver solder the wire to the needle. I then drill a small guage hole in the brass knob bushing into which I solder the copper wire. I cut a light groove in the base of the bakelite knob, exactly perpendicular to the knob bushing, into which I epoxy 1/2 inch or so of the the body of the needle. The groove allows for the base to remain flat.The needle now extends beyond the edge of the knob and extends to the numbered dial markings. If you use a fine wire needle you can get very accurate rate settings. The needle is steel and is flexible and tough. A sharp fine wire needle looks great and is not distracting in appearance.
    Regards,
    Richard

  20. Richard Thomas says:

    Hi, Joseph!

    I have located a supply of unmarked, rimless, 250 ml pyrex beakers, 68mmX90mm. The price is $6.00 US each, plus shipping.

    Richard

    • josephmax says:

      Hi Richard!

      Do you have a link to the source?

      • Richard Thomas says:

        Hi, Joseph!

        An aquaintance, Ruth Eckert, who is an RN and lives in Indiana, has a supply of new rimless pyrex Corning ware 250 ml beakers (four dozen) that measure 68mmX90mm (approximate 2.75 in wide X 3 5/8 in deep) that she will to sell to me. I recently found a blank 250 ml pyrex beaker on ebay for $9.00 that has the “V” shaped pour lip. I think the price is right. I will see her over the holiday, July 4th.

        Richard

  21. B ill Jensen says:

    Hi Joseph, this is Bill Jensen. Just read your info and its great. About my plans let me make 2 corrections: 1) stick pad has a single coil under it, and the smooth surface is black acrylic plexiglas, not bakelite. 2) The intensity knob has 0 ohms resistance fully counterclockwise at the 0 of the scale. can you tell me where my docs are wrong, I would like to correct them. But also let you know the machine seems to work in many such alternative configurations, the operator’s expectations seem to make the machine correct for the operator.

  22. josephmax says:

    Hi Bill!

    I’ve made the corrections in the above text. The minimum/maximum on the Intensity knob was a bit of dyslexia on my part – if you look at the next part of the text I write about “increasing the resistance” which would be silly if it were already at maximum!

    The biggest error I found in your on-line instructions, as I pointed out, is that you tell the builder to install the blank control panel (Step D in your instructions) into the box on it’s supports BEFORE mounting all the pots, switches and jacks on it, which is a functional impossibility!

    I’ll contact you in e-mail sometime soon with some suggestions for upgrading your instructions.

    And thanks for keeping me and the Aetheric Arts blog on our toes!

  23. aly says:

    Joesph I have read a manual which shows how to manifest using the hieronymus machine. I was wondering do you know how to balance for time for manifesting paper desires using this hieronymus machine, once you put in the witness? The manual says to put the intent first on paper, then you scan both dials till you get stick, you take paper out, put in witness and scan for balancing time. How do you balance for time, do you just turn the intensity knob until you get a stick and use that number, as a duration, (then turn intensity knob back to zero) to turn on the amp swtich OR just balance for 15minutes for all manifestation desires? I asked Bill Jensen he did not know, but he said what you recommend for balancing time seems reasonable.

    • josephmax says:

      I’m curious which manual you read. Was it Bill’s?

      Ray Mattioda’s manual described scanning (or dowsing, really) for a time duration as pretty much exactly what you described. Using the intensity knob, state the intent as “how many minutes are needed for balancing, the dial is one to ten”. Another way is to ask for the number of seconds, which on a 0-1000 intensity dial gives you a maximum of about sixteen minutes or so. If the dial goes all the way to max without a stick, try again and ask for minutes instead. Then, yes turn the Intensity back to zero to transmit is the typical technique.

      Another way to approach it is as I described in the post about Scanning and Balancing the Chakras.:

      The best analogy to describe it is to imagine that you’re clearing blockages in a system of water pipes by “pushing” pressure through them. Start turning the Intensity dial until you get a stick reaction, which is analogous to hitting a blockage in the pipes. Let it run at the Intensity for a few moments, then continue, turning the dial until another stick reaction is felt. Repeat this until your wind the Intensity dial all the way to 1000, which means you’ve “pushed the blockage” all the way out of the “pipe”.

      Typically it ends up being 5-10 minutes to complete the process. Doing it this way is unique in the tradition and was originated by John Michael Greer and myself, so far as I know. I like how it keeps the operator actively involved in the process, which I believe will raise more power.

      (Feel free to send me an e-mail via my Gravitar page link if you prefer not to describe something on an open comment board.)

  24. aly says:

    yes it was Mattioda manual. I read that manual it does not show how to balance for time, assuming u read same one i read… I have not seen the hieryonmus machine yet. I will be great at it, thru gods will. You also say use seconds for balancing time. ”0-1000 intensity dial gives you a maximum of about 16 minutes” so your saying treat 1-10 as 1-1000, got it.
    1. you said use minutes for balancing time, but the dial is 1-10, i heard dr hieryonmus said turning machine on for 15mins or all the day, is the same thing, using this ‘minute balancing theory’ will a maximum of 10 minutes be sufficient. i assume it would as your not healing but manifesting?
    2. Shal i first ask for seconds then minutes?
    thanks appreciate.

    • josephmax says:

      Oh, if you’ve not used one of the Machines yet, you may have missed the fact that the Intensity dial rotates fully ten times around before stopping. It’s a precision multi-turn potentiometer, so each rotation of 1-100 on the dial scale can be repeated a maximum ten times, totaling 1000. When scanning for Intensity, you simply count to yourself each time the dial makes a full turn. For example: I start scanning (rubbing the stick plate) and turn the dial, it goes around and past the ’0′ mark three times, then I get a stick reaction when the dial gets to ’37′. So the scan value is therefore 300 (three times around) plus 37, equaling 337.

      So If I’m scanning for a time value, the dial goes around six times and I get the reaction at 30, that’s 630 seconds, or 10 minutes and 30 seconds.

  25. Willem W. says:

    Hi Josephmax!

    I have read and re-read your article with a lot of interest, you really made a beautiful piece of art, congrats!
    I am now in the stage of gathering the parts and planning the construction and I still have a few questions about some little details. I would really appreciate it if you could take some time to answer these. Thanks in advance!
    Here they are:
    - Just out of curiosity (not very important actually): what are the dimensions of your crystal? I’m guessing something like 3″ long?
    - Why do you have a second coil (with crystal) at the right? Is it for the ‘loop’ and not necessary for a basic construction?
    - About the coils: you mentioned you used 16 turns (around the crystal), is the number of turns important? Has the coil around the witness well the same number of turns or is it wound through the whole length of the pyrex beaker? If it has the same number of turns, could it be an improvement of winding it the whole length (giving it more ‘antenna length’)?
    - Since radionics can be practiced with just cardboard and some knobs, are any of these questions actually relevant?=)

    Thank you and the best of luck with your future projects!

    Willem W.

    • josephmax says:

      The crystals are about three inches long and about a 1/2″ in diameter.

      The second coil is a modification I made myself, to allow connecting an external “charging unit” in parallel with the stick plate. In the machine’s instructions, you’re supposed to place the target vial of distilled water (with a drop or two of clear, drinkable alcohol – I use 151 rum) on the stick pad to make homeopathic “clones”, so I made it so I can connect a second well or a second stick pad to do that. It “loops” to the stick pad coil. The second crystal is to amplify the aetheric emanations.

      Tradition holds that coil windings should be in multiples of eight. I wound the coil on the well tightly, but it seems it’s not crucial. Within the small confines of the well, the field will encompass the witness sample regardless. I did tight windings because I liked the look!

      Dr. Hieronymus did not believe that symbolic machines were the same as real instruments, particularly for transmitting. I agree. It’s the difference between radiesthesia and radionics. Mattioda believed that using only symbolic devices was risky for the operator. When using a symbolic device, it is your own life force that is powering the work. With an actual instrument, the instrument is supplying the aetheric energy after you’ve tuned it and powered it up. When you use only symbols, you are connecting yourself aetherically to the target, and Mattioda believed that it opened on the operator to absorbing negative, dis-ease energies. He pointed out that many proponenets of the “symbolic only” practice ended up with serious health problems in later life (like Tansley and Cosimano) while on the other hand, “black box” practitioners like Hieronymus and Copen lived long, healthy lives.

      Who knows for sure? But I’m not going to take the chance! See my post on the subject here.

  26. Willem W. says:

    Ok, so “tradition holds that coil windings should be in multiples of eight” and the fact that Jensen doesn’t use multiples of eight got me thinking about the functionality of the coil’s construction. The “multiples of eight” seemed a little vague to me so I did a little research and ended with some interesting facts that could play an important role in the construction of future devices. Here we go:

    So every atom/molecular structure/building/… has its own resonant frequency. The same applies to the coils in the black box. Every coil has its own self-resonant frequency and this frequency can be calculated (estimated) with the following formula:
    (1/5)
    29.85 x (H/D)
    F = ——————-
    N x D
    where
    F = self resonant frequency in Mhz of an ‘isolated’ coil
    H = coil height (or length) in meters
    D = coil diameter in meters
    N = total number of turns

    This formula has an accuracy of 10% for all coil sizes and gives the best results with (Height/Diameter) ratios > 1.
    (Source: http://www.pupman.com/listarchives/1996/june/msg00227.html)

    I had a little fun calculating the resonant frequencies of coils with 8, 16, 32,… turns around a crystal I have laying around here. I got a lot of frequencies, but not much results.
    I continued my research and started calculating the resonant frequencies in Jensen’s design (http://www.wdjensen123.com/hieronymus/Plans.htm).
    The ‘main coil’ (wound around the wooden dowel) had the following characteristics:
    D = 1/2″ = 1.27cm = 0.0127m
    N = 15
    Calculating the coil height goes like this:
    32 gauge wire has a diameter of 0.2mm. Since it’s a double wound coil, each turn takes 0.4mm, so the height of the coil is :
    H = 15 * 0.4mm = 6mm = 0.006m
    All this gives a self-resonant frequency of:
    F = 134.871088MHz = 134 871 088Hz +/- 13.5MHz

    Now take a look at the picture in the following link. It’s a table of the octaves of cosmic (natural!) frequencies.
    http://www.coralcastlecode.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/vibchartfront.jpg

    As you can see, our calculated frequency is very, VERY close to the ground tone of octave 27 (so close it actually IS the ground tone of octave 27!). Remarkable, isn’t it?

    Ok, so there is a second coil under the stick pad wich (according to Jensen) should be built like this:
    D = 4″ = 10.16cm = 0.01016m
    N = 8
    H = 8 * 0.2mm (single coil) = 1.6mm = 0.0016m
    Which results in:
    F = 253 749 909Hz +/- 25.3Mhz
    This coil has a H/D F = 19.55Mhz
    3.0″ = 7.62cm => F = 15.71Mhz
    In other words a range around the ground tone of octave 24.

    So my conclusion is that the coils used in his device are definitely NOT random and that these natural frequencies probably enhance the functionality.
    Also, the tradition “coil turns must be multiples of eight” should be changed to ” coil resonant frequency must be multiple of eight” (or more precise a ground tone of an octave).

    So far my investigation, hope it can help some people and if you have any comments, please tell me!

    Thank you,
    Willem W.

  27. Willem W. says:

    Something went wrong with the text.

    The formula is F = [ 29.85 * (H/D)^(1/5) ] / [ N * D ]

    After the calculations of the second coil (stickpad coil) is a piece of text missing, it should be:

    “This coil has a H/D ratio F = 19.55Mhz
    D = 3.0″ => F = 15.71Mhz
    In other words a range around the ground tone of octave 24.”

    That’s the correct text!

  28. Willem W. says:

    Still a problem :S Don’t know why…

    “The second coil has a H/D ratio less than 1, so less accurate but with the 10% interval in mind it is still significantly close to the ground tone of octave 28!

    For the last coil (around pyrex beaker) I couldn’t make accurate calculations since no dimensions are given. However with an estimation of 2.5″ to 3″ the following frequencies are calculated:
    D = 2.5″ ; F = 19.55Mhz
    D = 3.0″ ; F = 15.71Mhz”

  29. Sorynzar says:

    Those formulations look alien to me. Can you elaborate on what H/D means, also what N and D represent?

    I’m working with a number of complex formulas at this point to determine the best type of tuning coil for a radionics oscillator circuit. Extrapolating data from Geodesic formulations, and maxwells theorem. Allowing me to determine via geometry the precise length of an inductor to harmonically resonate with eloptic energies. Incredibly, its gone beyond Mhz into Ghz. However, some mad hat papers from the past conclude that thought operates on a frequency within the US AM frequency spectrum, so there are a number of interesting possibilities to experiment with.

  30. Willem W. says:

    Sorynzar, my first post explains the symbols and my reasoning. I think it was awaiting moderation when you replied. The first post should clear thing up.

    Another thing I would like someone’s opinion/expertise on is the following:
    When you wind your coils with other characteristics (like for example these in Josephmax’s machine) than Jensen’s plans, would the rates described in Hieronymus’s manuals (Eloptic Medical Directory and Cosmiculture manual) be still the same, or would they change according to the coils resonant frequencies? This would mean that every machine that’s different needs to be re-calibrated..

    For European builders: McMaster-Carr doesn’t ship to Europe anymore. I found someone on ebay who sells black phenolic sheets (3mm thick) for a reasonable price, ships from the UK.

  31. Sorynzar says:

    That makes much more sense now with the explanations. Similar to how I devised my own coil. Have you had a chance to record inductance, and capacitance values of any of your prototypes? It could be much more accurate in determining the frequencies involved.

    From what data have the octaves and vibrations per second been calculated on the scale you linked to?

    I’m of the practiced opinion that rates need to be scanned each time a device is used, as there are a number of factors which can affect them. When using a machine which is different to one the rates were calculated for, it would be extremely inaccurate.

    • josephmax says:

      I think there are limits to trying to analyze aetheric “energies” as if there is a direct relationship to electromagnetism. Radionics is not electronics. It has little to do with energy as a physicist describes it. This was the error made by the earliest researchers and it’s continued to the present day. It’s a seductive idea because electronics becomes ever more sophisticated and complex, more “miraculous” all the time.

      Electronics also becomes ever more miniaturized, but radionics operates on a much more “macro” scale.

      I’m not saying that we all might as well throw out the boxes and go totally, stark raving psionic, and just draw everything on paper or computer screens. The material basis of copper, glass, wood, bakelite, plastics and silicon do serve a useful purpose. But they are only useful as the conveyance of something completely non-electronic, what I’ve come to call “aetheric information transception”, because I’m trying to get away from using the ill-fitting terms of electronics and physics.

      Even Dr. Hieronymus stated that the ratings (pF) of the air-tuning capacitors in the circuits he designed are irrelevant, or at least allow for a very wide range of workable values. So how can this be, if the size and windings of the coils are so crucial that one more or less turn or a small change in diameter will make a radionic instrument less effective, or even unworkable? What exactly is a radionics device “tuning” to?

      Simple: it’s tuning to the operator. The person using it is an indispensable part of the system. The human nervous system has a very wide tuning range, and can accommodate a lot of variation.

      Anyone who really does the work I’m sure will agree that using a radionics device is a learning experience. It’s not automatic. It’s more like learning to play a musical instrument than learning to operate a radio. Some people have a natural knack for it, others have to work hard and practice a lot, and a few people will simply never be able to do it. That’s not a moral failing or anything, it’s like saying not everybody can play the guitar.

      (Dr. Hieronymus himself admitted he was not a very good operator of his own machines. But luckily for him, each of his wives were.)

      The point being that the minutiae of radio technology, calculating frequency resonances and values of coils and so on are less relevant to radionic instruments than they are to electronics. Radionic devices are “macro” in nature, and seem to work better with abundant wire, knobs, prisms, loops, crystals and such. The bigger the better – many devices are meant to interface with the magnetic field of the planet, and it doesn’t get any bigger than that!

      The devices serve two purposes. They are conduits and “amplifiers”, and they give the human nervous system something to tune to. Lots of different devices can make music, but not until humans take it up and adapt themselves to that particular instrument and the way it’s played. Then the music comes out.

      When I build my instruments, there is a lot of subjective, “artistic” intuition that goes into it. Example: Bill Jensen winds his well coils with wide gaps. I wound mine tightly, because, well, it felt better to me. It was an aesthetic choice, a “brush stoke” in the creation of the piece. I think these considerations are more important than the calculated electrical values. (By the way, Willem, I’ve seen Bill Jensen’s coils and the windings around the dowel are definitely not wound tightly, so that will certainly alter your calculations on coil height.)

      I think that we, as aetheric artists, magicians and researchers, can fall into a trap of trying to apply theories of electronics in some kind of direct, or even indirect, causal relationship with radionics. We aren’t pushing electrons. We’re pushing aetheric information. The instruments can be designed and constructed with very “broad strokes”, so to speak, and be powerfully effective in the hands of a skilled operator. What we should be putting our efforts into is making better operators, not just better devices.

      Ask Uncle Chuckie Cosimano. He does everything with shoeboxes, oatmael cans and flashlights. And helmets. Lots of helmets.

  32. Sorynzar says:

    Furthermore, a note on phenolics. I believe it was mentioned somewhere that acrylic was used over the stick pad rather than Bakelite. I think there was a typo in the materials list. None the less it seems to work well for Joseph in his design.

    • josephmax says:

      Bakelite seems to have similar properties to wood in radionics constructions. I notice that all of the original stick pads of Ruth Drown were made of wood, as were many of the Delawarr devices.

      If we assume, like Dr. Hieronymus, that Bakelite (in particular black, for some reason) is an “insulator” of eloptic (aetheric) transceptions, what purpose does having only the top panel made of it, if the rest of the box is made of wood? If a “eloptic shielded” box is the idea, shouldn’t it be made of all Bakelite? Almost all of the classic device’s boxes (Rae, Delawarr, Hieronymus, Copen) were made of wood. Metal would seem to be a better choice for a “shielded” case, but very few devices have ever been made of metal.

      Plastics are problematic and variable. Vinyl seems to clearly be an insulator, but wood and Bakelite seem to behave as “semiconductors.” Maybe that’s why my stick pads work.

      Or I just like the feel of them!

  33. thanosz says:

    Very Inspiring! I feeling like doing my own radionics now!

  34. aly says:

    Query regarding Hieryonmus machine:
    1. The neutralise button on the hieryonmus machine, i push it down, but its always in same position, when i push it, you cant tell whether its on or off. I can only gues whether its on or off. I thought when it goes down it stays down, but it always goes back up. Is it suppose to stay down when its on? i can only guess when its on or off?
    2. For ingestion vials, can you neutraliase tap water and use that, or is it best to buy distilled water or can you use both?
    3.When making ingestible potions with water, whats maximum water i can put on well, i assume its up to myself, 100cc, 50cc, …?
    4. I assume water can be put in a glass vial with plastic cap. Imagine I use a glass vial with writing, I would neutralise it first, avoiding fingerprints, but would i neutralise this bottle with writing, in the well or stick pad?
    5a, I went to buy some pair of wires for the input/output jacks, I want to send you a attached picture to your email, I just want to know whether these will work, i assume they would, but want to double check?
    5b, You said before i can send you an email via your gravitar page, but i cant find that page with your email on this site, can you give me location of this email/gravitar page?
    6. In addition, the USA power system input is 120v (voltage), and in UK (&Europe) it is 240v. I was given an adapter wiith the machine, USA adapter. I went to a specialist in UK, who said that the AC-DC power adapter you were sended cannot be used in the UK, as it only takes input power of 120v, he goes you use that in this country it will blow the plugs. I said what shall i do, he said you need a voltage converter, that will step down the UK power from 240v to the USA power of 120v, so the plugs dont blow and the machine will work. Should I convert (step down) the power from 240v to 120v or will the machine still work on the UK 240v power supply. For the latter I assume i would have to purchase a new AC-to-DC power of 240v not 100-120v?

    Tthanks Appreciate Response.

    • josephmax says:

      Hi Aly,

      1. I’m assuming you got one of Bill Jensen’s machines? If so, it’s best to e-mail him directly with specific questions on operation (like the switches used.) He’s a nice guy and is willing to answer questions. But the idea is that the Neutralize switch is a “momentary contact” type switch (what I use in my machine) which is engaged (on) when pushed down, and disengaged (off) when you let go of it. So to Neutralize, push AND HOLD DOWN the switch for 15-20 seconds, then let go. If the switch is in the “up” position, the Neutralize function is off.

      2. I always use distilled water I buy at a grocery store. The idea is this: Neutralizing can “wear off” after an indeterminate amount of time, especially when dealing with elemental compounds, like the minerals and chemicals dissolved in tap water. Eloptic signatures are “weak” in complex biological samples, photographs, etc., but very strong in simple chemicals. Mattioda advised using distilled water with a few drops of clear, digestible ethyl alcohol in it (this is what homeopaths use for making liquid remedies.) I use Everclear grain alcohol, but Mattioda wrote that clear 151 vodka is also usable. DO NOT use “rubbing alcohol” or any kind not meant for consumption.

      3. You can use as large a sample of water as your machine can bear – but probably putting a large, heavy container filled with water on the stick pad, like a gallon jug, is not a good idea! One can make (or buy) a larger external charging pad and connect it to the Out plugs. Jensen makes one about 12″ square that can rest on the floor, so you can potentize large bags of seeds or containers of liquid fertilizers. It’s really just a large, “outboard” stick pad. I made one myself, which you can see pictured with my machine in the photos (the round, black pad.)

      4. Dr. Hieronymus advised using test tubes with natural cork stoppers rather than vials with plastic caps. ANYTHING in the well is being scanned, including plastics in caps and paper labels marked with ink (remember, even after being neutralized simple compounds will recover an eloptic signature eventually.) Cork has a very neutral signature, and a test tube is long enough that most of tube (including the cork on top) will be outside the top edge of the well when the tube is placed in it. I use test tubes with corks, and a small, round sticker on top of the cork for identification. Push the sample down into the tube so that when the tube is placed in the well, the sample will be fully inside. It makes handling easy too – I keep the test tubes with samples in them in a rack, and pick up the one I want using a fresh Kleenex tissue to keep my fingers from touching it (keep a box of tissues next to the machine.) This is the procedure taught by Dr. Hieronymus, who always stressed proper handling of witness samples as being very important. His method is so much more convenient that having to use gloves and/or tongs!

      Also, keep your well very clean. I use a dust-free, microfiber towel to clean it, put a few drops of distilled water in the well and then wipe it out with the towel. NEVER use cleaning chemicals of any kind in the well.

      5a. The jacks on Jensen’s machines are the “banana jack” type, so you would use single male banana plugs to connect. Or you can use “speaker pins” or bare wire ends – unscrew the banana jack and you’ll see the hole in the metal post to insert wires. It’s basically the same kind of connection you see in stereo speakers, so use the same hardware. You can even use speaker wires. I use “test lead cable” for my connections, which you can get at any decent electronics supply store. There are banana jacks and speaker pins available that are “solderless”, so you don’t need to do any soldering to make your own connection cables, all you need are wire cutters/strippers.

      5b. My Gravtar page is reached by clicking on the icon next to my name in the message. Or you can go here directly: http://en.gravatar.com/josephmax

      6. Take the 120v wall adapter you got with your machine to the electronics shop and tell them you need to buy one with the same DC output voltage AND POLARITY in a 240v version. (Have them make SURE the polarity is the same or it can damage your machine. Look on the label of the adapter that came with the machine and note the icon that shows whether the “+” pole is the INNER or the OUTER connection on the plug itself.) Or you could use a 240v-to-120v step-down convertor, like the kind you would buy if you were taking your electric hair dryer or shaver with you on a trip to the USA or Canada. Either way would work fine.

      All that matters is that the machine gets fed 9 to 12 volts DC power, in the proper polarity. I rigged a 9-volt battery holder with a power plug to use mine where there is no available AC power, like in a field or garden. But don’t do that unless you are SURE you’re wiring the polarity correctly. I don’t think Bill puts a blocking diode in his circuit to protect it against connecting the power supply polarity backwards, so if you don’t do it right it will burn out the transistors – I know this from experience! (So after that I put a blocking diode in my version of the circuit – call it “stupidity insurance!”)

      I hope this is helpful.

  35. aly says:

    I just contacted you via your gravitar page. thanks

  36. aly says:

    1. To manifest intent on paper, should the paper be neutralised before putting in well?
    2. Once intent is written should it be neutralised again, as it will leave finger marks due to writing on it or does this not matter?
    3. Once intent is tuned, can you do another manifestation intent straight away?
    thanks appreciate.

    • josephmax says:

      Every radionics researcher should keep a supply of latex or nitrile gloves on hand (pun intended) to avoid the fingerprint problem. They are cheap and available at any drug or hardware store.

      Here’s my procedure for doing intent-on-paper work, be it a statement of intent or a sigil made from that statement.

      1. Put on gloves.

      2. Cut paper to a size to fit into the witness well or plate.

      3. Place paper and pen (or pencil) into the well and neutralize them for 20 to 30 seconds.

      4. Remove paper and pen, and use them to draw or write the intent. Place the paper into the well – the gloves keep your fingerprints from contaminating it.

      Basic rule: once something is neutralized (clear) it should not touch anything organic, especially the operator.

      According to Mattioda, some think that if you leave a long top edge on the paper (or photograph) that will protrude out of the well, that will keep any fingerprints or skin oils form the operator from contaminating the sample. Mattioda disagreed and so do I. I don’t take the chance, since using gloves makes it easy to avoid the problem.

      As for how long, it’s a good idea to scan (dowse) for the length of time you should “charge” for manifestation. Formulate the question, “How many seconds should I run the Machine for manifestation?” while turning the Intensity dial very slowly. When you get a stick reaction, note the total number (adding 100 for every full rotation) This gives you a maximum possible reading of 1000 seconds, which is around 16 minutes. If you go all the way clockwise with the dial and get no reaction, turn it all the way back to zero, and reformulate the question: “How many minutes should I run the Machine for manifestation?”, then scan for minutes, assuming each mark on the Intensity dial as counting one minute – each full rotation would therefore be ten minutes.

      For manifestation work, I sometimes leave one of my machines running for days. I would definitely not try doing a whole lot of intent- manifestation work in rapid succession. My advice would be to wait at least a day between each working.

  37. aly says:

    1. Once used latex or nitrile gloves, can they be used again or should you use another new pair?
    2. When neutralising pen, I suppose you mean just neutralising the ink point, as all of it cannot fit in?
    3. According to the manual, it states, when you taken written intent out of well, put subject or witness in. Then he gives examples of people manifesting what they wanted, eg, selling an item- would write intent, then take it out, then put picture of sale item in well, and scan for time. He also states that once written intent is taken out, put a picture of what you want affected and put that in the well, and then scan for time. I notice that no witness is used by the operator of their own, like hair or even connecting by wires, is a witness not used for intent work, cause i assumed, you want to manifest something, you could take intent out, then connect to a witness, and then scan for time?
    4. Anway imagine connecting via wires as a witness, how can you scan for time, as your hands will be busy connected to the wires?
    thanks

    • josephmax says:

      Using new gloves each time is always best. If you re-use them, neutralize them first.

      I’m not sure I understand your question, but if you’re selling an item using the procedure you describe, why would *you* (as in, a witness sample of yourself) be necessary? You aren’t selling yourself, you’re selling the object. Here’s another rule of thumb: keep it simple.

      However, if you think it’s necessary to be connected to the machine while scanning, I bought a electrostatic grounding wrist-strap, the kind computer techs use to keep static charges from building up on their bodies while handling static sensitive IC chips. Put the strap on your wrist (or ankle, as long as it’s in contact with your skin) and plug the cable into the positive Input jack of the machine.

      Aly, someday you’ll figure out that there is no absolute right or wrong way to do this kind of research. You simply have to experiment with various methods and find out what works best FOR YOU. My methods, or Bill Jensen’s or Ray Mattioda’s or Ed Kelly’s or even Galen Hieronymus’ methods may not work best FOR YOU. We all have minor variations in our methods. You have to do the work yourself and discover your own methods.

      Truly, you will learn more and have better results by DOING THE WORK than by obsessing over every bit of minor minutiae involved in the process. If you’re afraid to try anything because you haven’t calculated the perfect method, you’ll never DO anything, because there IS no perfect method. You’ll run around chasing your tail forever. Want to find out what works best? TRY SOMETHING and see if it works. If it doesn’t work then TRY SOMETHING ELSE.

      As Aleister Crowley once said, “Do the Work! Work blindly, foolishly, misguidedly, it doesn’t matter in the end. The Work itself has absolute virtue.”

  38. aly says:

    After taking written intent out, you put the subject, witness or picture of what you want affected – then scan for time.
    1. Assume you want something affected on yourself. Imagine wanting to decrease body fat or grow a body in size, i assume you put picture of your body in, but instead of that, can you alterntatively connect to the machine as a witness?
    2. The second part of the procedure, which is the subject, witness or picture connected. Can it not be in the form of writing. Eg, want to win someone in a fight, so you write intent you want to win, scan the dials, then you write the persons name on a paper you want to win – then follow through balancing time, will this work or is that too broad?

    As for the process of things, Jensen said you could connect to the machine for manifestation, but he has not fully done Mattioda processes, so just gave a overall answer, so thats why i assumed the above about the witness always connected to the machine.

  39. Fantastic content.You have an impressive blog you can be very proud of

  40. aly says:

    1. hi you been using a 380nm UV led, with quartz crystal, has this increased efficiency of your Results/Experiments?

    2. Why would you add quartz to the machine, as quartz is already a conductor of electricity, and it is known to transmit UV light and infra-red naturally, another thing using ?

    • Sorynzar says:

      I’d love to see the detailed paper which proves quartz crystals actually emit their own source of UV and infrared light. This could turn the world of physics on its head!

    • josephmax says:

      1. The purpose of the UV light is to cleanse or “sterilize” the quartz crystals; it is part of the Neutralize (Clear) circuit, so the lights shine only when the Clear switch is pressed. Installing the crystals seemed to increase the sensitivity of the stick pad (and pendulum response). A positive reaction makes my fingers seem to stick like glue on the pad. This was not the case before I changed the wooden dowels for quartz. it is possible that I was just getting better at sensing the reactions, but it certainly did no harm. I thought.

      But over a period of a couple months the stick pad seemed less sensitive. I described what I was doing to Ed Kelly of Kelly Research, and Ed told me he had tried to use crystals in his machines for the same reason, but crystals (he pointed out) need to be cleansed periodically, according the tradition and lore of crystals. Crystal users will rinse them in a running stream, or rub them with salt, OR expose them to direct sunlight. Ed solved the problem by making the crystals removable for cleansing.

      I hypothesized that the ultraviolet spectrum of sunlight is what does the cleansing. After all, UV light physically sterilizes surfaces. So my solution was to install UV lamps inside. Ed thought it was a great idea. So that is why the UV lamps are in there. Now the machine’s stick pad is consistently sensitive. I suppose you can say that it increases the the efficiency of the device.

      2. Like Sorynzar, I’m wondering about your claim that quartz crystals emit UV and IR light. Where do you get this information? Crystals can emit orgone, but that isn’t electromagnetism.

  41. aly says:

    Electromagnetism attracts electrons to an atomic nucleus to form atoms, which are the building blocks of molecules. Electromagnetism is the force that causes the interaction between electrically charged particles. All Matter consists of atoms (particles).
    everything is due to electromagnetic energy
    crystals interact with electromagnetic energy
    so orgone generators can impact electromagnetic energy
    Matter & Free Space consists of magnets.
    However when there is no physical mater, a electromagnetic wave exists which travels in a vacuum of empty space.
    Anyone contradict’s the above let us know please, but then again there’s always ways to improve.
    Ultraviolet & relationship to quartz: http://viewzone2.com/dna.html

    • Sorynzar says:

      Iv’e studied material’s science, and nowhere was it ever mentioned. In the atomic structure, the electrons “orbit” the nucleus, these are held in place by charge attraction. The nucleus has an equal number of positive protons as it does negative electrons. These charges attract each other and create a stable atom. In an ionized atom, the charges are unequal and out of balance, but they still remain in attraction via the electrostatic force. The link you make with a magnetic field may be in part due to moving electric fields, which can be exhibited by certain atoms under particular conditions. These particles are known as spinners, and we get the term spin fields from this. It is an area in which Russian scientists are calling Torsion physics. Yes, there are electromagnetic forces but they cannot explain how the atom is held in a stable orbit, that is down to electrostatic force, and electric charges. We haven’t even delved deep within the atomic nucleus, that’s an entirely different rabbit hole altogether!

  42. aly says:

    Which is the best radionics machine & is it possible to do get a automatic stick reaction?
    I personally believe it to be the medical analyzer (hieronymus). Can do everything, however it needs a stick reaction. Is it possible to make a machine that can do a automatic stick reaction without having to tune it yourself. I assume it was done this way, it would be taking energy from your vital life force, and as mattioda said this is not good, as it is not radionics, but using mind-power. Then again there is the SE-5 which does not need a stick reaction. They say it has a function on it, that does not drain the operators energy. ?

    • josephmax says:

      That’s like asking what’s the “best” computer, or automobile. There is no “best”, except for what’s best for you.

      The Digitron, what seems to be the most complex (electronically speaking) Hieronymus machine ever sold, had a pair of electrodes that measured galvanic skin reactions on the fingertips as a substitute for a stick pad, but it’s still using a human’s nervous system as part of the device. (I’m experimenting with that technique myself.) But I don’t think it’s possible with the current state-of-the-art, to get “automatic stick reactions”.

      There’s an interesting article on the Web written by a fellow who sold and serviced the Digitron and the SE-5 machines (which were designed by the same people) who says some disparaging things about the SE-5. Essentially he claims the SE-5 is an “empty box” with no electronic circuits that emanate any energies at all. In other words, it’s a very complicated (and expensive) SYMBOLIC Hieronymus Machine. There’s discussion about this on the Berkana Path Forum at:

      http://www.berkanapath.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=153

  43. aly says:

    Mr Riech found that orgone energy could be affected by Dor – negative energy caused by stress in body and EMF radiation from devises, and it therefore did not produce efficient results in pendulum dowsing. In Radionics the stick plate is the pendulum. How does Stress and EMF Radiation affect scalar waves in a radionics machine?
    Even Dr Hieronymus stated that as the years have progressed, the readings on the intensity dial are increasing for the same measurement. They attributed this effect to the rise of energies in the air such as nuclear tests, radio waves, radar, and microwaves that are also on the rise over the years. Is it best to use radionics where there is no emf radiation?

    • josephmax says:

      My understanding is that aetheric transmissions are carried along pathways that also carry electromagnetism, including (or especially) the planet’s magnetic field.

      I think that using a radionics instrument near a strong source of electromagnetism would cause “targeting” problems. The electrical energy deflects the emanations to and from the instrument. This would explain the problems with using pendulums under such conditions.

      If one is not near a strong EMF source, then it is another “self- canceling background noise”, like the existence of air in the witness well.

      My concern for this possible problem is what inspired me to create the Aetheric Shield Generator, which I keep active in the same workspace as all my radionic instruments.

  44. Jorgeea says:

    Hello, sorry for my bad English, I’m from Argentina and my name is Jorge. I believe that their experiences have been very interesting as well as very informative about the assembly of the Hieronymus Machine.
    For my part I have some doubts only when building the coils, so if any of you wish I could explain in more detail the construction of the pad or stick coil coil “p” of the diagram, that is, whether be wound flat and how this is done.
    From already thank you very much, my dear friends.

    • josephmax says:

      Here’s how I make my stick pad coils:

      http://www.ryanmcginty.com/orgone/sbbtutorial.htm

      Use the “toward the viewer” position facing the stick pad surface (“up”).

      Shape the coil as you bend it to the size of the stick pad. Remember it has eight turns. The coil can be slightly smaller than the stick pad.

      The stick pad should already have holes drilled in the corners to mount it to the top panel of the Machine.

      When the coil is finished, tape it directly to the under-surface of the stick pad using electrical (vinyl) tape. Cover the entire under-surface with a layer of tape.

      You can use some small, thick rubber washers with the pad’s mounting screws to keep the stick pad slightly raised, so the wire coil under it doesn’t get squeezed when you tighten the screws.

      I hope this helps, good luck with your project!

  45. aly says:

    I was wondering, the neutralise button on a radionics machine, what does it actual do to a witness or a specimen, lets say for example, you wanted to neutralise some oil, and this oil was not organic, when its neutralised does it get rid of all negative vibrations attached to that oil, so now the oil is more stable?
    thanks

    • josephmax says:

      The neutralize function only clears *aetheric* signatures, not *inherent* ones. So you can’t render a sample of arsenic “inert” by neutralizing. But a substance that is essentially inert (radionically speaking, such as water or cork wood or pure vegetable oil) can have an aetheric signature given to it previously removed by the process. Neutralizing also renders a sample ruined for witness purposes.

  46. Jorgeea says:

    Josephmax:
    That good your explanation! I am really grateful, and now only remains to complete the project, and it works!
    Thanks again!

  47. Janette says:

    I have an old machine from Radio-onic, Inc. Original Home Treating Radionic Instrument, from Long Beach, CA. It has the old fashioned typewritten info for dealing with many microbes with the rates (frequencies). I know nothing about it. Is anyone here familiar with this type of machine?

  48. Pingback: Announcement! | Aetheric Arts

  49. jeff M says:

    Josephmax:
    I would like to know if you use a photo of some one or thing, then send them a pill or kill weeds can you then use the same photo to send another pill ( same kind or diferent ) or would you have to have a new photo after the first pill was sent or used.
    jeff

    • josephmax says:

      If I understand the question, the same witness specimen (such as a photo) can be used many times for any given purpose. As long as the specimen remains uncontaminated (such as by being touched by the skin of the operator) it should last indefinitely. However, if you accidentally leave a specimen in the witness well and push the Clear (Neutralize) switch, that specimen is no longer any good as a witness, and has to be replaced.

      • Janette Warren says:

        DELETE ME FROM YOUR MAILING LIST!!!

        On Tue, Sep 18, 2012 at 10:29 PM, Aetheric Arts wrote:

        > ** > josephmax commented: “If I understand the question, the same witness > specimen (such as a photo) can be used many times for any given purpose. As > long as the specimen remains uncontaminated (such as by being touched by > the skin of the operator) it should last indefinitely. Howe” >

      • josephmax says:

        I’m approving this somewhat rude message for the information of the blog followers.

        There is no way I can remove a subscriber from receiving e-mail notifications! WordPress does not allow it. If you don’t wish to receive e-mail notifications you must remove yourself.

        Here are are brief instructions re:unsubscribing

        1. They can click the “unsubscribe” link on the emails of the post they receive at the very bottom of the emails.

        2. Or they can go here > http://wordpress.com/#!/read/edit/ and locate this:

        “Get new posts by email” in the drop-down menu they have these choices:

        Never
        Instantly
        Daily
        Weekly

        3. They can also click the “x” next to any blog there to unfollow it and no longer receive posts in their Reader or by email.

        4. They can go to your blog and click the follow/unfollow link on their Admin bar.

      • Sorynzar says:

        Joseph, you should be able to find “Users” under your admin dashboard. Search for the user in question and delete them. Users are the ones recieving the new post mailings.

  50. josephmax says:

    Unfortunately, in the WordPress system, the owner can’t cancel user subscriptions to the blog. Weird, but I’m assured by admins that this is the case.

    • Sorynzar says:

      It may be different in wordpress hosted blogs. You can’t cancel subscriptions as you say, but you can delete the user, so problem solved. Then again, it may be different for this blog. I find sometimes it may even be a spam comment. As this has happened to me before, and I had no user by the same name.

  51. Mike Nisgore says:

    Hi Joseph, I tried making a diy version of an H.box last year, building my caps myself and it didn’t workout so well. I talked with Bill Jensen a bit and he passed me a copy of his circuit diagram that I used to build it. Last week, however I received some beautiful new cardwell capacitors and I’m feeling the itch to rebuild based on what I learned from the first pass. I am REALLY inspired by the H.box you built and am totally fascinated by how you modified it to include the black light (is that a led ??) and did you make it battery driven instead of needing the a/c power converter. Anyways, I’m not the most technically inclined and I was hoping I could talk with you a bit more about how you modified your circuit. I’ve had limited success with symbolic machines and have been just itching to get a fully functional mechanical machine to work. My family and I have some pretty severe degenerative chronic health problems that I’m hoping to treat with the H. machine. Is there a way you could maybe do a youtube type tutorial on how to wire together using a breadboard for those of us who are not so technically inclined with soldering??? Thanks in advance for any help you can give. <3 Mike

  52. Evandro Jose Silva says:

    Hello Joseph

    The rate dial in my and in your Hieronymus Machine start at 100 and end at zero.
    While at the Kelly Radionic Analyzer the rate dial start at zero and end at 100.
    Please, do you know why this difference? By the way, I think that in our machines we can not use the Kelly radionic rates. I hope I’ll be wrong. It is very important to hear from you.
    Thank you very much! Evandro Silva. Brazil

    • josephmax says:

      The reason my dials are calibrated with ’0′ at full clockwise and ’100′ at full counter-clockwise is due to the air variable capacitors I used. I explain this in the article. On any Hieronymus Machine, the setting of ’100′ on the dial must indicate that the blades of the variable capacitor are fully enmeshed. ’0′ must indicate that the blades are fully UN-meshed. It doesn’t matter which direction it turns, as long as that numbering/meshing relationship is correct. In my conversations with Ed Kelly, he saw no problem with my “reverse-numbered” dials.

      So you just need to check your machine inside and make sure the blades on the variable capacitors are fully enmeshed when your pointer is at ’100′. If so, you can use all the rates published by Kelly. If not, you have a seriously out-of-whack Hieronymus Machine!

  53. Arthritis says:

    How would I cleanse a RAD 2400 HD using a crystal? Thank you.

  54. OK, everybody. I have some questions I would like to get your opinions on.
    Since Josephmax mentioned it right above here, let’s talk capacitors. Every Hieronymus device I have seen has indicator verniers that go 180 degrees around. Regardless of how they are numbered, the dial only turns 1/2 of one revolution. But, the air variable capacitors have a rotation in most cases of 300 to 330 degrees. That being the case, when the dial only rotates 180 degrees it is impossible for the blades of the cap to be fully engaged at one extreme and fully disengaged at the other. Or am I suffering from Oldfartitis ?
    Does anyone have an opinion on the relative merits of one well vs. two ? Also did we ever find a supplier of 100 ml beakers with no spout ?
    I am thinking that I might put the well and coil inside of a larger well made of orgonite. The logic is that the orgonite is a source of energy that is then modified by the sample. I think it should give out a stronger reading. The same can be said for the witness plate and the stick plate.
    It also makes sense to me to place the bottom of any quartz crystals in the circuit in a base of orgonite. The logic is that the orgonite is a source of energy that is amplified by the quartz crystal then modified by the coil around the crystal.
    And finally, I am planing to use a small audio amplifier between the potentiometer and the output. The one I have chosen has a frequency response that goes down to 20 Hz. Do you think it would be better to have an amp that will go below the Schumann freq of 7.83 Hz ?
    Well, what do you think ?
    Be happy, James

    • josephmax says:

      OK, let’s see here…

      First off, where do you see air variable capacitors that rotate more than 180 degrees? Almost all of them do, it’s standard. And when rotated through the full stops at 180 degrees, the blades are fully unmeshed to fully enmeshed. That’s because the blades are perfect half-circles. They use half-circle blades because it makes it easier to manufacture them to consistent values.

      Look here, a regular Google image search: http://tinyurl.com/kqlvn4r – you can see that they are almost without exception half-circle blades.

      The only ones I’ve ever seen that turn 300+ degrees are the tiny sealed plastic ones made for transistor AM radios.

      A second well is generally connected to the output of the circuit (parallel to the stick pad/output connections.) It’s used for making homeopathic remedies and tinctures. If a machine doesn’t have an “output well” then you just put the vial you wish to charge right on the stick pad itself. The second well is just for convenience. Sometimes it has a second amplifier circuit in-line with it to give an extra boost, but I think that’s optional.

      On what do you base the theory that an orgonite encasement will boost or modify the signature of the witness sample in a useful way? My understanding is that you want a little as possible between the sample and the coil that’s reading it. Now, this is not to say that it won’t work, but I’ve never heard of it being done. But, as with so many other aspects, it calls for more research!

      In any case, you’ve probably read some of my less-than-laudable comments about orgonite. (Shorter version: I’m not a big fan. It’s certainly no substitute for a real orgone platform or tube made to Reich’s specs.) The only times I’ve used the stuff is as an additional part for an already existing orgone tube. The crystal coil in my 3-Dial is mounted on a block of orgonite, much as you describe, but I think it would probably work just as well mounted on a block of wood.

      As far as using an amplifier circuit in the output goes, when I’ve done it (like with my Six-Dial DX-6) I’ve used VHF amps, not audio. The frequency output of a Hieronymus Machine is in the megahertz ranges. (I know because I’ve tested it, and it wrecks hell with the reception with the 88-92 mHz range of my FM radio!) It’s not the same as the output of a “zapper”, where you want VLF ranges. If an amp you put in line is not capable of VHF, you may just end up blocking the output!

      But if you want to gather more opinions, I recommend you join the Berkana Path Radionics Forum at http://www.berkanapath.com/forum/index.php and bring it up for discussion.

      • Thanks for the quick reply Joseph. I guess I AM suffering from oldfartitus. This is what comes from not actually handling an air variable capacitor in about 50 years. Thanks for setting me straight.
        As to the orgonite wells. My plan is to layer the items like this from inside to outside. First, obviously the sample. Then the glass beaker. Then the coil around the beaker. (so far just like normal) Then that entire assembly sits in the orgonite well.
        My understanding of orgonite is that it is a bunch of “stacks” of alternating layers of metal and organic material. This is supposed to be an easy way to get a large number of layers suspended in the resin. I don’t think all the “new age” stuff some people put in it does anything of value except maybe make it pretty. I see basic orgonite as a form of capacitor that receives and stores energy from the aether. A regular capacitor can be made with alternating layers of metal and paper. I am working on a form of “molecular orgonite” using microscopic terminated quartz crystals mixed with a fine powdered copper. We shall see if it is any better than regular.
        Also, it is my belief that the subtle energies we are working with (the aether here on earth) are a part of the 7.83 Hz resonant frequency of the earth. The earth sits out here in space being bathed in a full spectrum of electromagnetic energy from the sun. Like any crystal when exposed to energy, it vibrates at a particular frequency. I can’t prove it but it is my belief that this is the energy we work with in radionics. It just makes sense to me to build a device that is tuned to that frequency band.
        Now, that is not to say that a device would not put out a wide range of frequencies in the MHz range or all across the spectrum. (especially if there is an active electronic circuit like an amplifier) But, are these frequencies the primary frequency we want to work with to effect change at a distance ? Don’t ask me. I’m just an old fart working on instinct here.
        Thanks for the help. Be happy, James

      • josephmax says:

        My understanding of orgonite is that it is a bunch of “stacks” of alternating layers of metal and organic material. This is supposed to be an easy way to get a large number of layers suspended in the resin. I don’t think all the “new age” stuff some people put in it does anything of value except maybe make it pretty.

        Some of my skepticism about orgonite comes from the fact that most of it being made and sold is cast from fiberglass or epoxy resin. These are not “organic” substances! Neither can these plastic chemical resins be considered inert as far as aetheric emanations are concerned. And random bits in suspension are not “stacks”. Reich’s designs always require that the alternating metallic (metal foil) and organic (wood or paper) layers are in direct contact with each other. Lay them out flat (as in a platform or an orgone box) and you get a wide “semi-spherical” dispersion. Roll them into a tube and you get a directional beam along the axis of the tube. With this behavior in mind, what would you get with a lot of organic/metallic bits suspended randomly in an artificial plastic medium and not actually touching each other – in fact, they are insulated from each other by the resin? You may as well try to make a capacitor by grinding up mylar and metal and putting them in random suspension. Does it seem to make sense that that would work?

        Now, if the casting material was indeed organic (first requirement: it isn’t so poisonous that it requires gloves and breathing masks to work with) so that the material itself is the organic component, I can see it possibly working. Lay out strips of metal foil alternating with poured-on layers of something like beeswax or casein, which would serve to keep a solid shape after it sets. That’s an “orgonite” I could work with.

        As for the frequencies that radionics machines work with, my tendency to think in terms of VHF shortwave comes from actual testing of my Hieronymus Machine and my Shortwave Oscilloclast.

      • Sorynzar says:

        Have you tested the lower frequency end of the MPF102′s? Ideally we want something that is full spectrum. Yes true orgone matrix material needs an organic and metallic component. I’ve tried it in a beeswax resin as the organic along with some carbon and metal powders and it works really well. There are a lot of variable to test with orgone, but 50% metal, and 50% organic is the key.

      • josephmax says:

        A circuit that can go from sub-sonic to UHF is kind of hard to make. Or let’s say that it’s hard to come up with one that will pass pulse waves cleanly at all those frequencies. My approach is to use external devices (e.g. zappers) in conjunction with shortwave radionics boxes.

        You have found a way to get around the non-organic molding materials, and that’s certainly a step in the right direction. But I’ve yet to find an orgonite piece that I can get the same “tingle” out of that I can with a proper orgone wand.

      • Sorynzar says:

        Yes, it is tricky to get something to cover such a wide spectrum, but I’m working on new designs to see how it can be achieved. I agree on the orgone. I feel a much better sensation with the wand types, but in conjunction with the beeswax matrix at the base, the effects are even more pronounced. It’s as if the matrix material is an orgone pump, while the wand component is the amplifier.

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